1936 On the Continent

grow in such masses that the meadows appear to be covered with yellow sheets. Chamois are protected in this neighbourhood and can occasionally be seen bounding from crag to crag. Mürren is a popular winter sports centre. The famous Arlberg-Kandahar ski-meeting is held there every other year, and in these races the ski-ing “aces” can be seen at their best. A funicular railway climbs the Ållmendhubel, from which there is a ski-jump and also the start of a bob-run, on which the “Bob Derby” is held each year. Mürren, too, is one of the main centres for curling; there is something for almost all tastes, and there are very few people who will not be pleased with Mürren. Next we descend the valley to Lauterbrunnen, which lies near the Grütschalp. Everywhere near the village are mountain torrents and waterfalls, of which the Staubbach is perhaps the most famous. It is a fine veil of water which drops almost noiselessly down in front of a precipice 1,000 feet high, and is so ethereally lovely that it has inspired many poets, including Goethe and Byron, to write poems.
The Trümmelbach Falls
    A complete contrast is offered by the wildly foaming Trümmelbach Falls on the opposite side of the valley; after tearing through a wild gorge and passing through a subterranean passage, the water drops about 100 feet and then dashes out through a small hole in the rock with such tremendous force that it strikes the opposite rock face before falling down a deep chasm and escaping into the valley. Underground galleries have been built, so that it is possible to view the falls from a very close range, and this sight is most weird and terrifying.
    The peasants in the Lauterbrunnen valley produce hand-made bobbin lace, and in spring and summer the women can be seen sitting at the windows or in the doorway, busily working away.
The Jungfrau
    From Lauterbrunnen it is not far to the village of Wengen, which is situated on the wall of the Männlichen, facing the Jungfrau. Brown chalets are dotted about on the green meadows at the base of the slopes, above which rise the gleaming tiers of the great glaciers, culminating in the snow-covered peak with its blue shadows. The Jungfrau can be seen in all her glory from any of the meadows near Wengen, while next to her rises the white cone of the Silberhorn. From Wengen the Alpine Glow is seen in its full splendour. As dusk draws nigh, a soft orange glow spreads over the upper snows; the colour gradually deepens and creeps lower and lower until the whole of the slopes are bathed in it. Deeper it grows and deeper, ranging from orange to crimson, the sky darkens to purple and becomes studded with stars. Suddenly the glow fades and disappears, and the contrast between these turbulent colours and the moonlight-flooded landscape in its quiet mood of silver and grey with velvety black shadows is eerie.
    Wengen is surrounded by beautiful peaks which shelter it almost completely from the north wind. The Wengernalp Railway opens up miles of snowfields for ski-ers. There are the slopes of the Jungfrau and the Eiger, the Männlichen and the Scheidegg. At Water Station, on the Wengernalp Railway, the ice run begins. A short walk brings one to the top of the 3 mile long run down to the village; at the top there is a jolly crowd waiting their turn for the down run, and the scene is made vivid by the brightly coloured sweaters and scarves.
    From Water Station the train continues to ascend until it emerges above the tree line and we get a view of the valleys deep below, while all around us are snowy slopes and greenish-blue glaciers. At Wengernalp station we disembark for the snow run, which joins up to the ice run lower down. The ski-ing slopes here are “nursery” slopes, i.e., for beginners. The train continues up to the
The Jungfrau Railway
    Scheidegg Pass, whence the experienced ski-er can start out on many thrilling runs. From Scheidegg starts the Jungfrau Railway, which is the highest in Europe and a marvellous feat of engineering. This line is only open in the winter when the snowfall has been poor, and even in summer it is advisable to make enquiries as to weather conditions before starting on the journey, else, instead of the eagerly anticipated view, one may see only a wall of fog.
    From Scheidegg the line proceeds towards the Eiger glacier, near which is Eigergletscher station, where a team of Polar dogs is kept in order to maintain communication with the upper parts of the line in the event