1936 On the Continent
XFORD
Clarendon
Randolph
The Mitre
B ANBURY
Whateley Hall
White Lion
The Crown
B ROADWAY
Lygon Arms
E VESHAM
Mansion House
Northwick, by the water side
S TRATFORD-ON -A VON
The Welcome
The Arden
The Falcon
The Red Horse
White Swan
D ROTTWICH
The Raven
The Worcestershire Brine Baths
W ORCESTER
Crown Hotel at Wychbold
L UDLOW
The Feathers
Old Black and White Inn (of great beauty)
S HREWSBURY
Raven
Lion
Mytton and Mermaid (ask for the history of Mytton)
C HESTER
Grosvenor
Blossoms
W HITTINGTON
There is a small hotel close to the Castle (Ye Old Boot).
L LANGOLLEN
The Hand (is a very old hotel), and there are many others.
From now onwards, it is unnecessary to mention special hotels, as the Snowdon district is well provided. We have mentioned the small hotel at Peny-Pass and at Lake Ogwen for the convenience of climbers.
C AERNARVON
The Royal, opposite the Castle
A NGLESEY
There are good hotels at Beaumaris, Rhosneigr, Amlwch, Pentraeth, and Aberffrau.
H ARLECH
St. David’s
The Castle
A BERYSTWYTH
Is a seaside place—plenty of hotels.
R HAYADER
Lion Royal
O N K ERRY H ILL
In Radnor Forest, an isolated inn, The Anchor, where foxhounds are kept.
ROUTE 4—SOUTH WALES
A DJOINING the North Wales trip, extend your tour south. Come back over the Radnor Forest for those high, wild hills are wonderful scenery, but when you get to H EREFORD have a glass of cider, and then turn west again (after two glasses of cider, you’ll reach Monmouth), but Monmouth Bridge is really there—it isn’t the result of the cider—there’s a genuine castle built in the middle of it. Shakespeare likens the Wye at Monmouth to the Euphrates, and, “Look you, there is salmons in both!”
Brecon Beacon
Then over the Black Mountains to Llanthony Abbey, that pocket in the hill, and Brecon. Brecon Beacon is a wild wet sheep walk—to be a shepherd of the Beacon amounts to something. You may be up to your waist in snow anytime from November onwards.
Turn north at Llandovery and cut across the hills to Aberayron, for the sweep of Cardigan Bay, and then make your way cross country to St. David’s—the old cathedral town of Wales—and back through Haverford West, Milford Haven and Pembroke, Carmarthen, Builth Wells, and any of the hill roads to Great Malvern.
Malvern , land of Piers Plowman, caters for visitors, and you’ll be well looked after.
The Wye Valley
From Hereford (or from Monmouth) explore the Wye Valley, the wonderful piece of land which lies between Hay, Hereford, Ross and Chepstow. I cannot pretend it is on the road anywhere, but it is a detour worth making.
As an historic point, there are small churches near Symond’s Yat—in a way, almost more interesting than Tintern Abbey (also close), for they show early Celtic work, where the Irish Pilgrims walked from St. David’s across, along your route, down to Canterbury.
Anyone going west on Tours 3, 4, 5, or 6 should fit in the land which lies either side of the Bristol Channel—it is little known, therefore quite unspoilt and most typically English.
Hotels and Road Houses in towns, or near the routes, mentioned.
H EREFORD
The Green Dragon
The City Arms
M ONMOUTH
Beauford Arms
The King’s Head
B RECON
Castle of Brecon
The Wellington
S T. D AVIDS
Several hotels near the Cathedral
The S OUTH C OAST is also well provided.
M ALVERN
The Abbey Hotel
The County
H AY
A choice of small country inns
Ross
The Royal
The Swan
C HEPSTOW
Sedbury Park
All the Wye Valley, from Symond’s Yat downwards, is well provided with hotels.
ROUTE 5—THE SOUTH-WEST
Now for the Great West Road!
If you want to extend this tour on to your Welsh tour that brought you down the beautiful Wye Valley, you can get a ferry from Chepstow. Beachley ferry service takes cars across the Severn to Aust, thus avoiding Bristol City, and giving you the beautiful undulating country beyond Chipping Sodbury to Malmesbury. M ALMESBURY was the scene of the earliest attempt at gliding in England, about 1170. A monk of Malmesbury made himself wings (probably from parchment) and took off from the high tower of the abbey. He broke his legs in landing, which he attributed to not fitting himself with a tail for steering, but the Superior said it was a judgment on him for defying God, and he wasn’t allowed to try again.
You can read all about it in the Chronicles.
Anyway, if you join the Great West Road south of the C OTSWOLDS you will see some beautiful
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