1936 On the Continent

horizons, bathed in optimism and peaceful contentment. You have spent some happy days in Portugal, you are not overcome with fatigue and have had fresh interests to keep you constantly amused. Take a train and make a few excursions through the Portuguese provinces. In the first place, to Estremadura, near Lisbon; then to Mafra and its enormous monastery; to Tomar, which surrounds the old convent of Christ; to Caparica, an immense beach of rolling sands, situated betwixt the sea and some pinewoods; to the castle of Almourol, which rears its proud battlements above the waters of the Tagus. Make a short stay at Galdas da Rainha, and, in comfortable motor-buses, visit the suburbs; Obidos, a medieval village; Fôz do Arelho, which has a magnificent lagoon where wild fowl abound; San Martinho do Porto, a charming seaside resort which is a paradise for children; picturesque Nazareth, a fishing village. Visit the convent of Alcobaça and beside the marble tombs of Dona Inez de Castro and King Pedro, listen to the tale of their tragic love; stop at Batalha and take in all the beauty of the most wonderful religious monument that the Portuguese people possess. Here it was that, in 1385, the decisive battle which consolidated for ever the independence of my country was fought. The monastery of Saint Mary of Victory commemorates the event. I beg you to remember, as you pass through its aisles, that great kings of Portugal rest there, while near them in the chapter-room lies an unknown son of the people under a bare slab, engraved with the glorious words: “Portugal, renowned for ever on theseas, on land and amongst the nations, to the unknown soldier who died for his country.”
    Pass through Leiria and visit Coimbra, city of arts and monuments, and Portugal’s most ancient university centre. See the gardens, arches, porticoes and cloisters of this excellent touring centre. Seek the Penedo da Saudade, the Stone of Memories, and the Meditation Stone, the Garden of Tears (Quinta das Lagrimas) and the Lapa dos Esteios; go through the woods of Choupal and Canas Valley, see the Botanic Gardens and the gardens of Santa Cruz. Enjoy the calm atmosphere of this town. The Machado de Castro Museum, the pulpit in the church of Santa Cruz, the University, its chapel and precious library, the Sê Velhà must not be omitted from the traveller’s programme. Afterwards, installed at the “Astoria” hotel, the “Avenida,” the “Coimbra,” “Braganza,” or “Central,” you will organise your excursions to the suburbs: Figueira da Foz, a large seaside resort with a cosmopolitan atmosphere, Penacova, a region of vineyards and orange groves, situated between deep valleys and ravines, Louzan and its mountain, a locality favoured by artists. In the evening, after your return to Coimbra, have a look at the cafès and bars of this town, where a romantic spirit prevails. You will hear in the moonlit streets, or on the banks of the river Mondego, a group of students in long black cloaks singing the melancholy serenades of Coimbra to the accompaniment of guitars or violas.
A Bit of History
    On the following day you will find yourself at Bussaco, eleven miles from Coimbra. Bussaco is an historic spot renowned also for its beauty. It was here that, in 1810, Lord Wellington, in command of British and Portuguese troops, routed General Massena’s army after a fierce battle in which the allies distinguished themselves by acts of signal bravery. Some impressive tilings and a monument will recall this glorious event to your mind, as after passing through Luso, a bright watering place, you proceed to the “Palace.” This was once a royal castle, but is now a monumental luxury hotel, and considered to be the best in Portugal. The “Palace” is a comfortable and beautifulnest situated in the very heart of a magnificent forest. In Luso you will find a casino, swimming-baths, tennis and other pastimes. In the Bussaco Forest, with its ancient monastery, romantic chapels, shrines built on verdant slopes, grottoes, fountains, rocks and the protective shade of its enormous trees, you will thoroughly enjoy a marvellous climb amid picturesque and dazzlingly varied scenery.
    Curia, a modern thermal resort surrounded by high mountain ranges, is at half-an-hour’s distance from Bussaco. The baths and the high-class “Palace” hotel at this gay resort have justly won fame.
Oporto
    You will arrive at Oporto (San Bento station), the second city of Portugal,