1936 On the Continent

bill. In theory additional gratuities are prohibited, but I have yet to meet a waiter who refuses to accept a tip. But whether you offer a tip or not is entirely up to you.
Permit
    It is important that, before leaving your lodgings, you should ascertain whether the so-called “
soggiorno
”—apermit to stay in the country, which must be obtained by your hotel or boarding-house—is in your pocket. Without a passport or “
soggiorno
” no one—neither man nor woman—must go out. It may happen that you are asked by a policeman in the street to prove your identity, and it is convenient if you are able to do so on the spot, by means of your documents. If you are a woman travelling alone, it will most probably happen in the various Italian cities that men of all ages and conditions will accost you, making compliments and offering to accompany you. If you are averse to this sort of thing, it is best simply to ignore all such attempts. Accosting women in the street is a fast disappearing relic of a previous era, and you may regard it as an exotic custom such as hashish smoking in Eastern countries.
Traffic
    Street traffic, as stated in the chapter on motoring, is right-handed. On trams and buses you board at the back and alight in front. If you are not in a hurry I can recommend the “carozza,” a quaint horse cab in which you can ride round the town at your leisure. During your ride you may wish to telephone. The telephone is automatic and you must dial the number you require yourself. The manipulation of the public telephones is somewhat involved, and as you might never learn it unaided you are advised to note the following: There is a box with a slot at the top of the telephone. Insert in this slot a fifty centissimi piece, but only half-way. You now dial the number you require. If you hear an intermittent buzz, that means that the line is engaged. If you hear the word “
Pronto
” push the coin in entirely. The word “
pronto
” is not a swear word. It means “I am ready” and is used instead of “Hello!”
VII—WHAT TO EAT IN ITALY
    Before proceeding to enumerate special local dishes, I consider it important to refer to certain essentials in connection with the Italian cuisine. Italian cooking is only decried by people who have never been to Italy themselves and have only heard about the “oily” Roman dishes from the cousin of their uncle’s friend. It will probablyinterest you to know that Italian dishes, in addition to being very appetising, are considered by medical opinion to be among the healthiest. Below I give the names of a few Italian dishes which are obtainable at any Italian restaurant,
trattoria
and even
osteria
.
    If you see the word
Ristorante
on the sign-board of an eating-house you will know that it is a place capable of satisfying the more exacting requirements in regard to quality, service and price. The
trattoria
and
osteria
are smaller, more homely places, though sometimes the food is far better in these establishments, and certainly much cheaper, than in the large restaurants.
Bottiglieria
means wine shop. In such places the food—if served at all—is of secondary importance. The important thing is the wine. Fish should not be ordered except at seaside towns or places close to the sea.
The Best Eats
    We now come to the Italian dishes. If you wish to begin a meal with a good hors d’œuvre, order
antipasto
. If you like it cold, say
antipasto freddo
; if warm, say
antipasto caldo
. The following is a list of the more important Italian dishes:
    S OUPS (
Zuppe
).
    Bouillon =
brodo.
    Bouillon with vermicelli, rice, vegetables =
minestra in brodo.
    Vegetable soup =
minestrone
(cold if desired).
    Vermicelli and bean soup =
pasta e fagioli.
    Fish soup =
zuppa di pesce.
    D RY PASTES (
Paste Asciutte
).
    Stuffed with meat =
ravioli.
    Stuffed with winkles =
spaghetti a vongole.
    With meat and tomato sauce =
paste al ragu.
    Baked in rolls =
maccheroni al gratin.
    F ISH (
Pesce
).
    Small fried fish (octopi, etc.) =
fritto di mare.
    Raw cockles =
frutta di mare.
    Other excellent Italian fish specialities =
baccala, triglie, dentice, merluzzo, cefalo.
    Crab =
gambero
or (on the Adriatic)
scampi.
    M EATS.
    Grilled beef =
bistecca ai ferri.
    Beef with ham and cheese =
bistecca alla bolognese.
    Veal and ham =
salt’in bocca
(Roman speciality).
    Beef in tomato sauce =
carne al ragu.
    Chicken =
pollo.
    Roast =
pollo arrosto.
    Boiled =
pollo a lesso.
    S ALADS (
Insalate
).
    Green salad