1936 On the Continent

distillers, amongst them Johann Maria Farina, went to Cologne by mistake instead of Frankfort, this refreshing toilet water was at that time called Frankfort Water, but the Cologners took up its manufacture and developed it successfully until our own times, when the products of Johann Maria Farina or “4711” are known the world over. As the name Farina is very common in Italy and can in no way be protected, it must be remembered that there are a good many Farina productions. The most genuine of these Farinas is that which is distinguished by the mark “Opposite Jülichplatz.”
Shops in Cologne
    I bought a large basket-work-enclosed flask for my wife at a chemist’s shop or, as it is called in Germany, Drogherie. I hope I shall have no trouble with the customs when I go home, but anyway shall declare the flask and perhaps shall get the benefit of my honesty.
    Toilet requirements and medicines are purchased at separate shops in Germany. If I want toilet things I have to go to a Drogherie, but if medicines, to an apothecary.
    All these and any other shops which I may need are to be found in the Hauptverkehrsader Kölns, and in the Hohen Strasse, which is the principal shopping street in Cologne; it has a particularly friendly and pleasant character as, on account of its narrowness, cars but seldom venture down it. Among the shops I liked best are the fashionable sports shop, Sauer, and the Stollwerk chocolate shops.
    Many winding little streets lead out of the Hohen Strasse—a part of old Cologne right in the midst of the modern life of the town. I saw there a great many antique shops where book-lovers may browse.
Hotels in Cologne
    After much deliberation I decided to stop at the Hotel Monopol-Metropol, which is very central and where I got a good room for 6 marks. The most luxurious and newest hotel is the Excelsior, where the prices are 1 to 2marks higher. I might also have stopped at the long-famous Dom Hotel, near the cathedral, or the amusing Grossen Kurfursten, also called the Savoy Hotel. I liked too the Ewige Lampe, with its quiet comfort and famous wines, where one can live well for 4 marks. The largest hotel of all is the Baseler Hof, with 400 beds.
    The Hotel Excelsior has a special significance for us English. I was told about it by Germans, but think it more tactful for us to say as little about it as possible. The English flag flew over it for a long time during the occupation of the Rhineland, when it was the headquarters of the English army.
    I was pleased to find that the Rhinelanders regarded our soldiers of the Army of Occupation—but our soldiers
only
—not merely without bitterness but with actual friendliness in their recollections. The English behaved most correctly and fairly in a difficult and critical situation, so I was repeatedly told by Germans themselves. Indeed, many mixed marriages resulted therefrom.
Entertainments in Cologne
    I had only one evening in Cologne, and I was advised to go to the Opera, of which the inhabitants are justly proud, but I had decided to keep my musical entertainment for other towns, and was unable to go to the play as I should not understand the German.
    I was sorry to miss the extremely luxurious restaurants such as the Wiesel in the wide Budengasse, or Rettberg in Komödiengasse, where the most delicious dainties may be obtained, but I preferred to go to the smaller places, hidden away in various narrow streets. In one street called Am Bollwerk there is quite a number of these close together. Many give almost the impression of a medieval drinking booth, and in them one encounters the genuine friendly cheerfulness of the most widely differing classes of Cologne society.
    I had done a lot in one day and so I went rather early to bed. This was not an easy thing to do, as in the big German towns the places of entertainment are open late, and one can amuse oneself quite legally till 3 o’clock in the morning without going to an expensive night-club. The limitation of the sale of drink to certain hours is unknownin Germany, but I have never seen any ill result from this freedom. When under the influence of drink the Germans sing somewhat loudly and talk a great deal, but of any grosser form of intoxication there is hardly a sign to be seen. I must testify in pleasant remembrance of my new friends, whom I shall probably never see again, that everywhere where I was recognised as a foreigner, I was almost boisterously greeted, and even when people did not