1936 On the Continent
it does not thrust them, as so many seaside towns do, right under the visitor’s nose, so that he feels rather as though he were living in a “fun fair.” Those who wish for plenty of amusements will find them, but thosewho prefer a quiet holiday with, perhaps, a little dancing in the evening, a little music, a theatre, a picture-house or a concert, will also find their needs catered for. You can be gay in Eastbourne and none will say you nay, but you can also spend a quiet and restful time without being disturbed by those who take their pleasures more strenuously.
The Town and Neighbourhood
Eastbourne is modern in a thoroughly pleasant way. It is a “planned” town, not thrown together haphazard as so many towns appear to be and where, only too often the grand and the sordid rub elbows. Along the front, which is on three levels, there is nothing architecturally to offend the eye; no “fun fairs,” waxworks, or dubious auction booths. One need not be snobbish to discourage “riff-raff,” and it may be truly said that there is no “riff-raff” here. In short, Eastbourne has a quiet dignity and charm all its own, for which reason those who once spend a holiday there, rarely go elsewhere.
Immediately to the west of it is Beachy Head, with Birling Gap, once a favourite resort of smugglers. There are plenty of delightful rambles to be had about here, to say nothing of some magnificent views. Near it are some delightful little villages which make excellent objectives for the walker, and one of them, Alfriston, is noteworthy for its ancient inn, The Star. Other places comparatively near at hand are W ILMINGTON , which once had a priory, the villages of East and West Dean, and Seaford, which is a little over eight miles from the town.
Longer trips may be taken by motor-coach while, in the summer, there are also many pleasant excursions by pleasure steamers.
Folkestone
Combining, if one may put it that way, the frivolousness of Brighton with the calm dignity of Eastbourne, Folkestone is an ideal holiday resort. Just as Thackeray waxed enthusiastic over Brighton, so Dickens belauds Folkestone which, he declared, is the place to come to for a life “of perfect repose.” That, however, is hardly a fair description of the Folkestone of to-day, for though repose is to be found there bythose who need it, there is also plenty of gaiety, plenty of movement and plenty to see and do. In addition to the usual attractions, such as theatres, concerts and so forth, it has an annual regatta, a cricket week and a military tournament.
Attractions and Surroundings
One of its chief attractions is the Leas from which, in clear weather, Boulogne Cathedral may be seen with the naked eye. To the west looms up D UNGENESS , and to the east are the desolate and romantic Kent marshes. New Folkestone—the visitors’ Folkestone—climbs the cliffs westwards, the older part of the town nestling round the harbour from which the boats leave for Boulogne and Flushing. This part of the town is strikingly picturesque in spots with steep, narrow streets that inevitably remind one of a typical Cornish fishing village. Though the fishing here has suffered of late years from competition by the North Sea trawlers, there is still some done, and the catches are put up for sale in the fishmarket on the north side of the harbour.
East of the old town is the Warren, a lovely, wild spot unspoilt by the hand of the landscape gardener, noted for the profusion of its wild flowers and the variety of fossils which are to be found there. This is an ideal place for rambles and picnics and for those who, tiring of the sophisticated pleasures of town, seek to be alone with Nature for a while. D OVER is only a little over seven miles away, and the Admiralty Pier can be seen from the Leas. Between Folkestone and Dover there is a regular service of motor buses, and it is a trip well worth taking. A visit should also be made to Newington, a charming village some four miles distant, with a picturesque old thatched cottage as well known to artists as Cockington Forge.
The Leas
Also within easy reach by car or coach, are Dymchurch, Hythe, Lydd, New Romney, Canterbury, and many other places of interest, so the visitor need have no fear of becoming bored or wearied. But the great “sight” from the social point of view, and of which the town is very proud, is Sunday church parade on the Leas, whichclaims to rival Hyde Park as a display of rank and fashion. By
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