1936 On the Continent

special permit from the authorities.
    The best hotels are on the Gardone shore of the lake. The fascinating little town of Limone, which is famous for its lemon groves, and the charming little town of Riva are also on the west shore of the lake. Riva has a new lake-side pool in which there is dancing every evening.
    On the east shore of the lake Torbole, Malcesine and Garda are quiet, refined summer resorts. Those who prefer the paying guest arrangement cannot do better than apply to Baron Beust, at the Villa Beust, Torbole, where you will be looked after by a charming and courteous host. The charmingly situated Villa Beust is said to be on the site from which St. Anthony preached to the fishes.
Verona
    Verona, one of the most charming and romantic towns of northern Italy, can be reached in comfort from Riva or Torbole by the Royal Mail autobuses. Verona has noluxury hotels, so that even the wealthy tourist must be content with one of the clean, comfortable inns, the best of which, the Grand Hotel Londre, is patronised by English tourists. The Touring is also good, while among the cheaper places the Gabbia d’Oro is adequate. However, it is not absolutely necessary to stay in Verona, as the town can be “done” in half a day. If you arrive in Verona by bus in the early morning you can go on to Venice, or Bolzano, Trento and the Dolomites in the afternoon. The most beautiful and romantic part of Verona is the completely medieval quarter round the Piazza dei Signori. The more “highbrow” guides omit what practically every tourist visiting Verona wishes to see, namely, the house where Juliet Capuletti’s family lived. The building is a large pile at Via Capelli 17, near the Piazza dell’ Erbe. Those who have seen it are puzzled as to how Romeo could heave sighs that were loud enough to be audible to a Juliet standing on a fourth floor balcony. The answer to the puzzle is that the tragic story of the children of the two unruly Veronese families was born in Shakespeare’s brain and never really happened. If you wish to see the more distant parts of Verona, a tram from the Piazza dell’ Erbe or the Piazza Vittori Emanuele will take you most of the way. In addition to the art treasures in the centre of the town the Cathedral, the Porte de Borsari, the Roman Arena, the St. Fermo and St. Zeno Maggiore churches, the Porte Leone and the Castelvecchio picture gallery are worth visiting. But in addition to its art treasures Verona is also noted for its countless small restaurants and
osterias
. The food and drink are excellent in all of them. Among the masterpieces in rice we recommend the dish known as “Riso e Bisi con l’Ochetta.” Verona is also the home of the various dumplings, so much so that there is a festival in honour of them held on the last Friday of the Carnival. The wines obtainable at the
osterias
include the world-famous Soava, Valpolicella and Prosecco. You can have your fill of these at one of three fine
osterias
, the Dei XII Apostoli, the Greppia or the Luna.
Madonna di Campiglio
    While you are in Verona you really must visit the magnificent mountain scenery of Venezia Trentina. Thisis best done by car, but if you have no car and find a horse carriage too expensive, you can travel by train to Trento and continue from there by bus to Madonna di Campiglio, one of the loveliest spots in the Italian Alps, or beyond this town to Male. If you arrive in Verona in the morning, you can leave your luggage at the railway cloakroom, see the town and proceed in the evening to Trento, where you can put up at a hotel (the best being the Bristol).
    There are few sights in Treno itself. You can “do” them in two hours, during which time you can visit the Dome, the Castello del buon Consiglio and have a good meal at the railway restaurant, continuing your journey to Madonna di Campiglio by the second omnibus. There are two buses per day from July till September. During the rest of the year there is only one per day—if the roads happen to be passable. If you wish to take a rest, you are advised to stay at one of the hotels at Madonna di Campiglio—which is some 4,500 feet above sea-level. The Grand Hotel will suit the affluent, while the Excelsior is a good medium-class hotel. Madonna di Campiglio has one of the loveliest golf courses in the whole of Italy. It lies at 5,100 feet above sea-level. It is a nine-hole course and its total length is 6,500 feet. There is a magnificent view of the Alpine peaks from