1936 On the Continent

bare four days, will refresh your husband. By the way, the cost is only a little over £6, including first-rate board. It is best to travel to Lithuania via the new Polish port of Gdynia,which is itself worth a visit, and once you have reached your destination you will realise yourself why I am advising you to go there. The Lithuanian coast, which extends from the mouth of the river Swentoj to the wonderful narrow Kurish peninsula—Kursiu Kopos in Lithuanian—is only some 57 miles long, but those 57 miles are mostly covered with the most gorgeous sand dunes in Europe. The fine, golden sands make a divine natural beach where you can roam for hours in the most bracing, pure air. There is something infinitely restful in the scenery itself, for the rolling dunes are surrounded on the landward side by dense forest that runs along the entire coast.
    “You can find accommodation even in the smaller villages, for the Lithuanians are so hospitable that hospitality like theirs is hardly to be found in Western Europe. However, since your comfort is of importance to you, I would advise you to go to one of the bigger resorts. The biggest is Palanga, which contains the summer residence of the President of the Lithuanian Republic. This little town is seven centuries old, but to-day it is above all a seaside resort. It is but little known abroad, though it richly deserves to have the story of its charm broadcast. Even so Palanga has about 6,000 visitors each year, whereas the town only has 3,000 inhabitants. Bathing at Palanga is really a lovely walk in the sea, and it is this walk that contributes so much to the strengthening of the nerves and to the improvement of general health.
    “I had to wade at least 90 feet over the sandy sea bottom before the water reached to my knees. That is why the beach at Palanga is both safe and ideal for children. The dunes all round offer the best facilities imaginable for sun-bathing. In addition to Palanga there are two smaller seaside resorts—Nimerzat and Giruilai—both of which can easily be reached from Palanga. Nice hotels and pleasant boarding houses are also available at these two places.”
    “But if we go to Lithuania we would like to see something else besides the sea coast.”
    “You will not be disappointed, I assure you. You would hardly believe that it is still possible to make a voyage of discovery in Europe, but a journey to Lithuania is just that.
    “For instance, who knows that this small country has no fewer than 2,000 lakes and that one-twentieth of its entire area is covered by lakes? And in these lakes there are many lonely islands with picturesque ruins of old castles. All these lakes, castles and forests have their legends, which the people have preserved to this day and immortalised in their folk-songs.
    “The Italians are sometimes described as the people of the song, but this description can perhaps more justly be applied to the Lithuanians. I have never heard so many songs, so many melodies as in Lithuania.
    “The towns themselves do not contain a great deal that is worth seeing, for Lithuania has passed through so many terrible wars that nearly all its ‘ancient monuments’ have been destroyed. Nevertheless Kaunas, the capital of the country, is worth a visit. The real capital of Lithuania, Wilna, was wrested from that country by the Polish
putsch
of 1920—an act which the Lithuanians have never recognised—and Kaunas (Kowno) was then made the temporary capital of Lithuania. With many sacrifices and a great deal of energy and vigour, Kaunas has been modernised.
    “Your husband will also be interested in visiting Memel—Klaipeda in Lithuanian—the only seaport of the country which has been the object of so many political disputes.
    “As you will see from all this you will find in Lithuania all that your husband requires. New impressions, relaxation, fresh vigour, in addition to which you will become acquainted with an unexplored part of Europe.”
    “I wonder if I shall be able to persuade my husband to take this little trip. He is so difficult in such matters.”
    “I’m in a position to reassure you on that score. I have already discussed the matter with your husband and he asked me to persuade you. He said you were so difficult in such matters. In addition, I must explain that I’ve been rather selfish in this connection. You see, I’m going to Lithuania again this year, and I’d like to meet you two there.”

POLAND
by
A. T.