1936 On the Continent

ski-ing schools and starting-places, which can also be reached from Innsbruck via Igls by funicular. At the Igler Alm you will not only learn the true enchantment of the mountain pastures, but you will be fully satisfied with food, service and lodging. There is a bathing pool filled with spring water from the heights, but it is more suitable for washing the head than for bathing in, as even in high summer only members of the society, whose motto is “Cool yourself daily,” could bathe in it. From Innsbruck you can tour and walk in the very beautiful Stubaital, surrounded by glacier mountains. There are also very lovely excursionsto be made by the Mittenwald Railway, both summer and winter, to the Seefeld district or, farther on, to the Zugspitz district. From Ehrwald im Ausserfern the most beautiful and remarkable funicular in Europe goes up the Zugspitz. You travel from the green valley (in an evening dress if you like) nearly to the summit of the mountain, and can step in your thin shoes on to the face of the glacier. Perhaps also you could pay a short visit to the glorious Ausserfern and Fernpass districts, Binwier, Reutte, etc., which would be worth your while.
Kitzbühl and the Arlberg
    The most fashionable district in the Tirol is probably Kitzbühl, to which King Edward has paid several visits. An ancient town with wonderful houses and hotels to suit every taste, and with most enchanting surroundings. A funicular takes you up the Hahnenkamm, where there are ideal ski-ing grounds and in summer the most marvellous mountain scenery. It is surrounded by mountains which attract tourists all the year round. You may bathe and boat in the fairy-like Schwarzsee, and you will be charmed with Kitzbühl the moment you see it. Incidentally you may meet famous people from many countries dancing, swimming and ski-ing there, from King Alfonso of Spain to Lotte Lehmann, Bernard Shaw and notable sportsmen. There are cafés where you can get five o’clock tea, and night clubs, and of course there are ski-ing schools for beginners and for the more advanced. I will only mention two pensions suitable for the slender purse: Pension Erika and Pension Schloss Lebenberg. At the Reich Hotel you may satisfy your more luxurious requirements.
    On the Arlberg there is St. Anton, where you can learn the Haute Ecole of ski-ing. Arlberg stands for pastures deep in snow, mighty mountains and, first and foremost, ski-ing, Alpine ski-running as the world-renowned Hannes Schneider, founder of Alpine ski-running, still teaches it in his ski-ing school. The most famous runners in the world learnt how to ski “properly” here. Only try it, you will like it even if you often find yourself flat on the ground. Here and in Zürs you will live through a Tirolese winter dream, you will see days dressed in white and gold like little fairies. The houses painted in red, blue, yellow andgreen, look like wooden toy houses: sometimes they have pointed gables, and sometimes wide-spreading roofs. Between them are old hay-sheds which give the places an indescribably homely air and which only have one disadvantage, they are always in the way of the ski-ers, like the trees, at which badly disciplined skis invariably rush with unerring certainty.
The Vorarlberg
    Behind the Arlberg, and full of character in its landscape as in its people, lies the Vorarlberg country. It is called
Vor
arlberg because it lies
behind
the Arlberg. A rich well-managed little country with a great many beauty spots. The capital, Bregenz, lies on the Bodensee, that lake which is shared by the three countries, Germany, Austria and Switzerland. You can sail and swim there, or you can visit the exquisite little summer resorts in the Bregenzerwald, like Bezau. In winter I recommend the villages and huts of the Montafoner valley. Everywhere there are beautiful excursions, good accommodation and, above all, first-class ski-ing schools in which you can learn the Arlberg technique. You might choose Parthennen in Montafon as your first headquarters, and from there you can go on to any of the other places you like.
    And now we have reached the Austrian frontier. You have, I hope, got some idea of the country and people, and if you have enjoyed yourself with us then please come again. You will have noticed that we are hospitable and grateful for guests who like our beautiful country as much as we do. If, however, you have not enjoyed yourself, then think it over, find out why and write to us about