1936 On the Continent

And finally, the Begova džamija (mosque), “like which there is none as far as Stambul, except at Adrianople,” with its cool, dignified lines, oriental colouring, old lime trees, cooing doves, quiet, shaded fountain and rare Eastern carpets.
    Yet, fascinating as each of these sights is, none is so humanely thrilling as a walk in thearžija (bazaar), where in front of long rows of wooden shops lie higgledy-piggledy masses of the most varied goods in a riot of colours and designs. Picturesque opankas, slippers of red or yellow leather, coffee sets or coffee mills, artistic filigree pipes, ear-rings, spoons, brass pots or plates, embroidered shirts, sleeves, table-cloths, sashes in gorgeous red, yellow and gold, are all heaped here to tempt the buyer. And inside the shops, all of which are open, you may see how before your own eyes brass and silver are fashioned by copper-and silversmiths into plates or artistic filigree.
    You may handle the goods if you like. Dignified old Moslems will watch you silently behind their long pipes, and never move an inch unless you address them. Then the grand ceremony of bargaining begins. There is no fixed price, and you should not be offended if the price asked sounds fantastic. It is a compliment to you, because the Serajevo merchant prices the goods according to the standard of riches he attributes to the buyer. So, if you are keen to know what the world thinks of you, try the Serajevo bazaar. There is, of course, nothing to prevent you from offering modestly half the price you are originally asked. Then it will be a matter of wits and diplomacy who will win the battle, and at what price you will achieve a compromise.
    When in Sarajevo don’t miss buying some of its famous oriental sweets, such as rahat-lokum (Turkish delight), alva, which you buy in tins, or baklava, which is made of honey and nuts. If these pass your test, explore further among the endless varieties born of a fertile imagination. But whatever you do, don’t try the native cooking in the small restaurants as it is mostly done with mutton fat.
Farewell to Serajevo
    Before taking leave of Serajevo, visit the back streets, where along narrow steep cobbled lanes you will encounterveiled women in Turkish trousers who will hide their faces against the wall at your approach, and see rickety houses, charming latticed windows, and street-urchins galore. If you have time, take a walk along the paths to the surrounding hills for their enchanting bird’s-eye view of the town. And if you can manage it go and see the spa of
Ilidža
(Hotel Bosnia), which has strong sulphur springs, and where the Bosna takes it source.
Pale
, which has a mountain hut, is visited for winter sports.
    You may leave Serajevo by several routes. To Belgrade you can travel by the finest railway route in all Jugoslavia, through the romantic gorges of the Drina, up the serpentine railway tunnels of Mokra Gora, where the line describes a perfect figure 8, and through the bluish hills of Servia. A train passing through a pleasant undulating valley of plum orchards and fields will take you to
Zagreb
. And finally, via
Travnik
, the once proud seat of the viziers, which has a powerful fortress, you can reach the heart of Bosnia.
    Here you discover the “Pearl of Bosnia,” lovely
Jajce
(Hotel Grand), perfect in its Eastern atmosphere, with picturesque verandahs, gabled windows, steep, narrow streets, donkey drivers, veiled women and a medieval fort. The waterfalls of Jajce rushing through the town and foaming in a myriad brilliant colours over a mighty rock are an unforgettable sight, even if you have seen a thousand waterfalls before. Perched above the falls there is a kiosk in the middle of the stream, where you may sip Turkish coffee, for no man knows, say the Moslems, what it is to drink coffee until he has drunk it above flowing waters.
    From Jajce a bus or car will take you through the gorges of the mountain to
Banja Luka
(Hotel Bosna, Hotel Palace), a fair-sized, interesting Eastern town, where you will have to say good-bye to the unsuspected charms and magic of Bosnia, and hurry, via Zagreb, back to your home land and civilisation.
South Serbia
    Compared with the other provinces, South Serbia is ignored by tourists. Few indeed are the people who have ventured to explore the rugged beauty of this unknownland. And no wonder. South Serbia is not a tourist country in the accepted sense of the word. There are no hotels catering specially for