1936 On the Continent

among the heavenly hierarchy with all its angels and archangels, there sit here in a humble corner the three craftsmen who wrought this wonderful carving, chipping away quietly at their work. Then there is the Leaden Inn (Kuršumli Han), probably built by the Romans, with a leaden roof, which was later a caravan centre and mart, and now looks odd with its tiers of boxes round the roomy central space. Exceptionally good is the museum, which is a real synthesis of South Serbia, and in addition to a fine collection of national costumes has copies full size and completely detailed of the frescoes in the ancient monasteries.
    An interesting ramble will take you through the bazaar with its many coppersmiths, or past the gipsy quarter, or again to the Roman aqueduct near the town. From the fort an interesting panoramic view of the town is obtained. Longer excursions may be undertaken to the valley of Treska, to the canyon of the Skopska Crna Gora, where one may see national costumes and, on Sunday, folk-dancing. The village ofuer and the monasteries of Sv. Nikola and Bogorodica (the Virgin) are also worth a visit.
    Not far from Skoplje, via Gradsko, and thence three kilometres to the south, lies
Stobi
, the “Macedonian Pompeii,” which will be of the greatest interest to people with an archaeological bent. Here a Byzantine town was superimposed on a Roman settlement of the third century. Recent excavations have revealed a fine marble amphitheatre, a temple and an early Byzantine church, besides many other buildings, sculptures and mosaics.
Excursions from Skoplje
    The finest excursion from Skoplje is by rail or car to Ohrid, and thence back by a circular route via Debar. This route leads first through
Prilep
, the birthplace of the Serbian hero Prince Marko, and now the centre of a well-known tobacco district which is specially interestingat harvest time. From Prilep you can continue to
Bitolj
(Hotel Jevti) below the Perister Mountains (7,800 feet), where the nights are cool even after the hottest day. Bitolj is famous for cheap embroideries. Its church of St. Dimitrije, with five altars, is a curiosity among orthodox churches. From here you can travel, via
Resan
, on the lake of Prespa, which is famous for its peaches, pears and trout, to Ohrid.
    Ohrid
(Hotels Bellevue, Tourist) with its narrow, rising cobbled streets, rickety fishermen’s houses and jutting verandahs, is picturesquely situated on a rock above a beautiful spacious lake. It is famous for its plant and animal life, unique not only in the Balkans, but in Europe. In and around the lake are no less than eight varieties of trout, as well as salmon and eel, a fish which produces pearls of excellent quality, and many very rare species of birds and flowers. It has several interesting churches with medieval frescoes: St. Sophia, where the Oecumenical Council was held in the tenth century; St. Kliment and St. Nikola. Worthwhile excursion points are Struga, well known for eel fisheries, and St. Naum, a charming old monastery lying in idyllic quiet on the Albanian frontier, which can be reached by boat.
    The return journey by car leads through a most primitive land, full of forbidding mountains and unspoilt natural beauty. The route passes through Debar, near the Albanian frontier, a town famous for coppersmiths and wood-carvers; through the monastery of St. Jovan Bigorski, where one can stay for the night; and via Gostivar and Tetovo, below the Shar Mountains (8,000 feet) where the snow lies until May, back to Skoplje.
Belgrade
    The constant mixture of East and West, the violent contrasts between people, culture, houses, customs and climates that are so characteristic of Jugoslavia, are nowhere so fittingly symbolised as in
Belgrade
, the capital (Hotels Srpski kralj, Excelsior, Bristol). Always a junction of geographical communications, and always a battle-ground of nations, Belgrade continues to be so even now. The most important routes between West and East, the Orient-express line and the great inter-European motor road,both run through Belgrade. There is no racial type you may not meet and no language you may not hear spoken at Belgrade, through the entire linguistic gamut of West and East down to Armenian or Asiatic Kalmuk. English is specially favoured at Belgrade. English courses are crowded, English teachers all busy, and the twelve-year-old Anglo-American-Jugoslav Club, which is open to all visitors, is a flourishing institution.
    Since the War, Belgrade