1936 On the Continent

has grown almost overnight from a modest Balkan town with barely 100,000 inhabitants to a fair-sized central European capital with 300,000 inhabitants, and traces of its growing pains are visible everywhere. Quaint old one-storied houses with crazy walls, shaky windows and queer, tottering chimneys sticking out into the street, may be seen leaning against fine new buildings of the latest architectural type throughout the city, but particularly near the old cathedral. Especially fascinating in this harmony of old and new is the fine park of Kalemegdan, which is picturesquely situated at the confluence of the Sava and Danube, and offers a beautiful view of the rivers at sunset. The whole park, with its modern arcades, flower-beds and balustrades, is artistically embedded in an old Roman fortress, making singularly happy use of the old gates, the Roman well, the Nebojša tower, and Meštrovi’s statue of the “Victor,” whom puritan Belgrade, since he is entirely nude, refused to have in the centre of the town.
The Sights
    To the passing visitor Belgrade can offer several interesting sights. There is the fine art and historical museum of Prince Paul in the former palace of King Alexander. The ethnographic museum in Miloša Veliki street has a rich collection of national costumes and embroideries. At the Cvijeta Zuzoripavilion at Kalemegdan there is always an exhibition of the works of some Jugoslav artist. In addition, Belgrade has a good opera, theatrical and variety shows, concerts, cinemas and many other attractions. The food at Belgrade is the best in the Balkans. And the Knez Mihajlova Street can offer attractions both to the business man and the lady shopper during the day. The lover of feminine beauty will be interested in theextraordinarily pretty girls who promenade in the evening on the “corso.”
    But it is not to the passing visitor that Belgrade will show its real charm. For this charm is not standardised; it is highly individual and peculiar to Belgrade. It lies in the spontaneous intimacy, gaiety and the capacity of its people for vigorous enjoyment. All you really need is to get to know a native of Belgrade, any of whom will respond at your first approach, unless you are exceptionally shy or formal. Then Belgrade will open like Pandora’s box, and lay its wonders before you.
    In a twinkling your new friend will have collected a merry crowd and will take you on a tour of Belgrade’s innumerable cafés, each of which has its own individual atmosphere. He will probably start the ball rolling at the Bohemian “Skadarlija” (Dva Jelena, Tri Šešira) with its intimacy and singing. Then you will want to taste the Serbian specialities, “evapii” and “ražnjii,” succulent bits of grilled meats, at the famous Gospa Jela’s little grill room, or at “Užice” or “Mala Kasina.” Or else your friend will take you to the “Pristanište” for river fish, or, if you prefer, to the “Dva Ribara” and “Primorje” for sea fish. By this time, since a new friendship has to be pledged in “šlijvovica” and at least two or three varieties of local wine, you are all bound to be in a merry mood. This will naturally suggest the more riotous “Zlatna Lira,” “Petit Paris” or the Russian “Kazbek,” or else one of the cafés in the suburbs frequented for their singers—“Nova Skupština,” “Novi Beograd,” or “Crna Ruža” with its Balalaika orchestra. Next morning between noon and one, quite early in fact, you will meet again at one of the buffets in Knez Mihajlova Street, or at “Gajger’s” to confirm your friendship over a snack and another “slijvovica” or two. After this you will leave behind in Belgrade at least a score of friends and you will depart with a pang of regret and an unforgettable memory of a spontaneous and gay experience.
A Marvellous Church
    After a night in the cafés you may find a short excursion into fresh and green open spaces pleasant. The park of Topider contains the old palace of Serbia’s first ruler,Prince Miloš, now turned into a hunting museum. Near by, at Košutnjak, a golf course is due to be opened any day now. The hill of Avala, with the unknown warrior’s tomb and a monument by Meštroviin the course of erection, has a fine hotel, a beautiful view, and ski-ing in the winter.
    You may find it worth while to make an excursion by bus or car to
Oplenac
, the church built, in accordance with the old tradition of Serbian kings, by King Peter