1936 On the Continent

your passport, and hope for the convenient small boat going the way you wish.
    Altogether very different in character is the next island, I ONA . Stornoway is a harbour given over to seagulls and herring-boats, and the drift of peat-smoke of the earth and sea. But Iona, is a land of ghosts—very devout ghosts—people come to see things, and to dream of Eternity in Iona. They go to do things, human and tangible things, like fishing, and golf, at Stornoway.
And Many Ghost Stories
    Not that queer things can’t happen thereabouts. Years ago, down in the dusk, by the little harbour, was told one of the queerest true stories of the sea. The water was sliding backwards and forwards, over the slipway, and the gulls were crying, and the men and women were waiting for the boats to come in. And the talk went round, of the ghost crew who it is believed sometimes take a boat for their own uses—and those uses unknown to living man, and into that little harbour, that winter, had come a curious craft, “Long, she was.” “Black, she was.” “Very long, she was.” “No sail to her.” “No rudder to her.” “Just a river barge, she was, made to tow, either way.” “An American river boat, she was, had come across all by herself, she had.” “Put herself into harbour, all alone, she did—one night.” Next day, the harbour folk found her—rubbing alongside the quay, as if moored, but no one saw her come—nor cast from her. So there was great discussion, for not a soul could find out anything about her—not a soul was there on board(that you could see), none knew of her. When the authorities were for having her towed away down to the Clyde, to be broken up—“it was the only thing to do,” and the tug was waiting, but that tide she slipped her moorings, and was gone.…
    “Smuggling?” No, she was not a craft that could have sailed among these islands. No one would have had her, there was no gear on her. No. The serious opinion was that “
Those
that had needed her, had come over in her, and when she was no longer of use to Them, They, that knew how, scuttled her.”
    No, I do not think it would ever be possible to write a Guide Book of the Western Islands. There is so much there that belongs neither to the land nor the sea. And once lost among the islands, maybe you will never return where you came from. So there’s warning for you!
ROUTES FOR SCOTLAND
    Now you have read an all-round description, you can choose your route with good hope of going to the country of what you want most to see.
    By reason of the mountains, and comparatively few good roads, it is absolutely necessary to follow a fairly definite route, so we have appended a list. But we advise any motorist to be guided somewhat by the weather. Some days you might drive through the most beautiful scenery in Scotland, and yet see nought but white mist either side the road.
    Do not try to go too far if you’re pressed for time—better to stay at some centre that appeals to you, and explore from there. Here then are the routes, and on any of them you can deviate to your heart’s content, quite safely.
Route 1
    1. From Carlisle (supposing it to be the continuation of the English tour)—to Edinburgh. Main road through Moffat—a great ravine, known as the Devil’s Beef Tub, reputed haunted. From Selkirk; explore the rolling Border country of the Picts and Scots and the Border Ballads. Arrive in Edinburgh at dusk. Edinburgh toStirling. Read Scott’s Poem and see the Links of the Forth. Bannockburn. Relics of The Bruce, and the Castle. Excursions to Trossachs. Between Stirling and Perth, it is possible for a car to go around the coast road of Fife, to St. Andrews (golf). But consider exploring the old Carse of Gowrie, south of Fife.
    Dundee can be reached by car ferry from St. Andrews.
    From Dundee to Kirriemuir, Glamis Castle, Arbroath, if interested in old fishing industry. Up to Aberdeen and back through Balmoral, Aberfeldy, the Loch road to Killin, Lochearnhead, and the east coast, Ayr, Kirkcudbright, Dumfries, to Carlisle.
Route 2
    2. Along the route, continue Edinburgh, Stirling, St. Andrews, Dundee, then inland. It is really necessary to stop in this district to explore the circular routes, so I suggest a centre such as Tomintoul or Kingussie. Then Inverness and back along the central rift valley to Fort William, around the coast to Oban—a detour necessary. Excursion to the islands, possibly, and back through Loch Lomond and Trossachs,