1936 On the Continent
joining first itinerary.
Route 3
3. The complete round, continuing onwards from Inverness, through Dingwall, Bonar Bridge, Brora, Helmsdale, and the Scandinavian land up to Wick and Thurso, with detour to John o’ Groats and the Orkney Islands. Back along the most northerly road to Durness (wonderful caves), Cape Wrath (a lighthouse and coastguards’ station, that well deserves its name), Scourie, Ullapool—and then you can either sweep inland back or continue a winding road along the west coast to Gairloch and Torridón to Applecross, Kyle of Lochalsh, and over the seas to Skye. (It is possible to take the car across and motor round Skye.) It is necessary, by car, to return inland along Glen Moriston to Lochness, before following Lochness to Loch Lochy and out to the coast again at Mallaig. (There is always the chance of seeing the Lochness Monster), and the fact that there is absolutely no road possible between Mallaig and Kyle of Lochalsh proves what a perfect district this is for explorers on foot.
Route 4
4. For those who want the Hebridean songs we advise a route direct to the west, giving opportunity for visiting the islands, Iona of the Saints, Stornoway of the fish, Skye of Bonnie Prince Charlie, and Flora Macdonald, and the Cuillins, those most marvellous rock climbing mountains.
Hotels and Road Houses in towns, or near the routes, mentioned.
E DINBURGH
Riverside Hotel
Royal British Hotel
Caledonian Hotel
Grosvenor Hotel
M OFFAT
Annandale Arms
Buccleuch Arms
S ELKIRK
The County
S TIRLING
Golden Lion
T ROSSACHS
Trossachs Hotel
D OUNE
Woodside
B RIDGE OF A LLEN
Spa Hotel
S T. A NDREWS
The Grand
K IRRIEMUIR
Airlie Arms
A RBROATH
Seaforth Hotel
A BERDEEN
Caledonian
B ALLATER
Invercauld Arms
A BERFELDY
Breadalbane Arms
L OCHEARNHEAD
Lochearnhead Hotel
K ILLIN
Killin Hotel
A YR
Station Hotel
D UMFRIES
The Station Hotel
T OMINTOUL
Gordon Arms
K INGUSSIE
The Duke Of Gordon
I NVERNESS
Station
Caledonian
F ORT W ILLIAM
Alexandra Hotel
F ORT A UGUSTUS
Lovat Arms
O BAN
Alexandra Hotel
D INGWALL
The National
B ONAR B RIDGE
Caledonian
H ELMSDALE
Bridge Hotel
W ICK
The Station Hotel
T HURSO
The Royal
Pentland
D URNESS
Cape Wrath Hotel
S COURIE
Scourie Hotel
G AIRLOCH
Gairloch Hotel
K YLE OF L OCHALSH
Station Hotel (Facing Skye)
S KYE
Portree Hotel
B ALLACHULISH
Ballachulish Hotel
G IRVAN
KING’;S ARMS
C RIANLARICH
Crianlarich Hotel (Very Central)
J OHN O’ G ROATS
John O’ Groats Hotel
B RAEMAR
Fife Arms
Invercauld Arms
C ARNOUSTIE
The Bruce
C ALLANDER
Callander Hotel
B LAIRGOWRIE
The Queen’S
I NVERARAY
Argyle Arms
G LENEAGLES
Gleneagles Hotel.
K ENMORE
Taymouth Hotel.
P ITLOCHRY
Atholl Palace.
D UNBLANE
The Hydro.
G LENCOE
Glencoe Hotel.
P EEBLES
Peebles Hotel.
D UNBAR
Craig-en-gelt.
IRELAND
(
Northern Ireland and the Irish Free State
)
By DOROTHY HARTLEY
“B EDE states that Ireland is much superior to Britain both in the salubrity and serenity of the atmosphere. He is right as to its salubrity; but with due respect to his opinion, he is in error with regard to its serenity.”
(
A comment by a tourist of the twelfth century.
)
‘Ireland is the most temperate of all countries. The burning heat of Cancer does not drive the inhabitants to the cool shades, nor the freezing blast of Capricorn urgently invite them to the fire. You seldom observe snow here, and then only for a short time.… The grass in the fields is green in winter as well as in summer.… In consequence of the agreeable temperature of the climate it is warm at almost all seasons. The air also is so healthy that no clouds bring infection, and there are no pestilent vapours, or tainted breezes. The islanders have little need of physicians.
People and Pipers
Many other things are wanting here, much to our advantage, such as vermin. There are no earthquakes, you scarcely hear thunder once a year; thunderclaps do not terrify, nor flashes of lightning strike. Here are no cataracts to overwhelm you. No lions to carry you off, no bears to devour you, no tiger to destroy you.…”
Of the Irish people themselves: “Whatever natural gifts they possess are excellent, in whatever requires industry they are worthless.… The only thing to which I found this people apply commendable industry is playing upon musical instruments, in which they are incomparably more skilful than any other nation I have ever seen.”
(
Ibid.
)
Well; some things do
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