High Tide in Hawaii

as silk.
    â€œActually, I wouldn’t mind just taking a walk on the beach,” he said to the others.
    But no one seemed to hear. They had all walked over to a row of wooden surfboards propped against the rocks.
    Boka picked out a long board and lugged it over to Jack. “For you,” he said.
    Jack took the board and looked up at it. It was as tall as his dad.
    â€œIsn’t this a little
big
for me?” he asked.
    Boka shook his head. He chose a board for Annie. Then he and Kama grabbed a couple for themselves.
    Jack took a deep breath. “I’d like to read a little about surfing first,” he said. He put his board down and pulled out the research book.
    â€œWhat is
that
?” asked Kama.
    â€œIt’s a book,” said Jack. “It tells you about things.”
    â€œHow does it talk?” said Kama.
    â€œIt doesn’t talk,” said Annie. “You read it.”
    Kama looked confused.
    â€œJack, forget the book now,” Annie said. “Let’s just do what Boka and Kama tell us.” She headed for the ocean, lugging her board.
    Jack sighed and put the book away. He left his pack in the sand, picked up his board, and followed the others.
    They all stopped at the edge of the water.
    â€œFirst we need to get past the breaking waves,” said Kama. “Then we’ll show you what to do next.”
    Together they waded into the cool, shallow water.
The waves don’t seem all that big,
Jack thought hopefully.
    But as he waded deeper into the ocean, the breaking waves began to look bigger and bigger. When the first wave hit him, Jack leaned against it, lifting his board. He nearly fell over.
    Kama, Boka, and Annie moved farther out into the ocean. Jack watched as a wave loomed over them. They all threw their boards over the wave and dove into it.
    Jack struggled forward. The next time a big wave came toward him, he threw his board over it. Holding his glasses tightly, he ducked under.
    When Jack stood up again, he wiped the water from his eyes and glasses. His surfboard was close by. He grabbed it before another wave came.
    Jack kept fighting his way forward. By the time he got past all the breakers, the water was up to his chest.
    â€œWe’ll paddle out to catch a big wave!” said Boka.
    Jack frowned. “But—”
    â€œDon’t worry, Jack,” said Kama. “It will be fun!”
    Boka and Kama pulled themselves onto their boards. They lay on their bellies and began paddling with their hands out to sea.
    Jack and Annie lay down on their boards, too. Paddling over the gentle waves, Jack relaxed. Now,
this
was something he could do all day.
    â€œWhen I say
go,
paddle fast back toward the shore!” said Kama.
    â€œWhen do we stand up?” said Annie.
    â€œWhen you start toward the shore!” said Boka. “Stand up with one foot forward. Stretch out your arms to keep your balance!”
    â€œBut don’t try to stand up the very first time!” said Kama. “Just ride your board on your belly!”
    â€œI see one coming now!” said Boka.
    â€œWait, wait!” said Jack. Everything was happening too fast. He had questions.
    â€œGo!”
Kama shouted.
    Jack saw a big wave rolling toward them. Before he knew it, Boka, Kama, and Annie were paddling quickly toward the shore. Jack paddled like crazy to keep up.
    Suddenly the wave lifted him and swept him forward! Jack zoomed toward the shore with amazing speed. Out of the corner of his eye, he saw Boka and Kama—
and
Annie!—all standing up.

    Jack wanted to be like them. In a flash, he went up on his knees. He put his left foot forward and stood up! For one second he felt like a soaring bird—then he lost his balance!
    Jack fell into the water, grabbing his glasses just in time. The wave crashed down on top of him! Water filled his mouth and went up his nose. His board and his lei were swept away.
    Jack twisted and turned in the churning water. When his head bobbed up above the water, he choked and coughed.
    Another big wave crashed down on him, and he went under again. When he came up, he plunged forward, desperately trying to get to shore.
    Again and again, Jack was thrown down and slammed by breaking waves. But each time, he got up and hurled himself closer to shore.
    Finally, Jack dragged himself out of the ocean. Feeling bruised and battered, he fell onto the sand.

 

    â€œJack!” cried Annie. She ran to him. “Are