1936 On the Continent

of view. Not far from Ancona lies Loretto, the famous place of pilgrimage, and Recanti,the birthplace of the famous poet Leopardi. Between Ancona and Foligno the town of Urbino is the only one worth visiting. It has a beautiful Dome and a graceful applazo Ducale. Its picture gallery contains a few world-famous masterpieces (Raphael, Titian, Signorelli, etc.). From Urbino you can reach Rome through Foligno and Terni.
Ravenna
    From the point of view of the art-lover it is better to travel from Bologna not towards Faenza, but towards the ancient city of Ravenna. Formerly Ravenna lay on the sea coast, but the deposits of the river Po have formed a 7 mile wide strip between the city and the sea, so that Ravenna is to-day only connected with the Adriatic by a canal. Ravenna was built in the fifth and sixth centuries and is full of art treasures, most of which originate from the Middle Ages, when the city was the hub of Italy’s religious and political life. Ravenna is at its best during the spring months. It is a majestically gloomy city, where the voice of even the most cynical visitor unconsciously assumes a quiet note within a few days. The church of S. Vitale and the Dome are masterpieces of medieval architecture. Near the church of S. Francesco is the sepulchre of Dante Alighieri, the great Italian poet, who died in Ravenna in exile at the age of fifty-six, on the night of September 13th, 1321.
Florence
    The majority of tourists go from Bologna straight to Florence, the most important city of the Renaissance period from the intellectual, artistic and commercial point of view. Formerly the trains running between the two towns made a wide detour, via Pistoia, but three years ago the journey was considerably shortened, a series of tunnels having been bored under the Apennine Mountains. The electric train runs through a 4 1/2 miles long tunnel and over a 950 feet long bridge before reaching the great 11 mile Apennine tunnel which is the second longest tunnel in the world after the Simplon. The train passes through the small town of Prato before reaching Florence.
    After Rome, Florence is the most important Italiantown from the point of view of art history. But what makes Florence attractive to the foreign visitor is the fact that it is not merely a dead museum of works of art, like some other Italian localities, but a city full of life, movement and charm.
    The Florentines are a charming and courteous breed, but there are also large foreign—and particularly English—colonies. The English colony have their own club, through which the members maintain contact between themselves and also with Italian society in Florence. That is why the majority of Anglo-Italian marriages originate in Florence. Many English and American families have purchased villas at the loveliest points in the surrounding district, in Fiesole, on the hills near the city, and have settled down for life.
How Long to Stay
    The “experts” say that you must spend at least three days in Venice. What about Florence? Who could presume to advise the tourist in this connection? In my opinion even a year is too little, but even if you are in a tearing hurry you must devote at least five days to Florence. As regards accommodation we can recommend any of the luxury hotels, but those who yearn for genuine English or American cooking should go to the Anglo-American Hotel which is situated on the bank of the Arno in peaceful surroundings. There are countless boarding-houses, among which the tourist must choose according to his means. The Danish Dienesen and also Beaccit have been recommended. If you wish to stay in Florence for a long time you can rent a furnished flat or villa. Completely furnished flats—including tableware and kitchen utensils—can be had from 400 to 500 lire per month.
    From the point of view of amusements Florence offers no better possibilities than most other Italian cities. Public social life is confined to one or two “middling” dance halls, a good theatre, concerts and cinemas. The fact that we have said little about amusements in the previous chapters is not due to forgetfulness. Italian towns have little to offer to lovers of the lighter type of amusements. Few Italian towns have a dance hall ofEuropean standard, a night club or even a restaurant with facilities for dancing. The hotels are magnificent, the scenery unforgettable, the works of art wonderful, the national customs interesting, the restaurants and the Italian wines