1936 On the Continent

call particular attention to the Palazzo Publico (at the entrance of which you are advised to purchase the 10-lire ticket which will admit you to all the museums in Siena), the church of S. Francesco, the magnificent Roman Cathedral, upon whose marble floor forty artists have worked, and which contains the masterpieces of Pinturecchio, Donatello, and Michelangelo. You must also see Pinturecchio’s pictures in the Piccolomini Library, the Donatellos and Ghebertis of the Battistero, the house of St. Catherine, daughter of Jacob Benincasa, and the Academy of Fine Arts.
    A charming souvenir of Siena is the famous
panforte
, a vessel which was already frequently mentioned in the literature of the twelfth century.
    From Siena you can make interesting excursions to several small Tuscan towns, like Asciano, Montepulciano, Pienza. The railway links up with the Rome main line at Chiusi-Bagni di Chianciano.
Florence—Arezzo—Rome
    The shortest route from Florence to Rome is through Arezzo. Arezzo is a little known town. The town of Petrarca, Aretino, Vasari, Piero della Francesca, etc., quite close to Florence, and most tourists pass it by. Yet Arezzo is well worth a visit. The town itself, with its many art treasures, will amply compensate you for your trouble, but in addition to that there is the surrounding district, S. Sepolcro, Citta di Castello, the entirely medieval Gubbio and the source of the Tevere, all of which deserves to be visited.
    Between Arezzo and Rome you may wish to break your journey at Orvieto, the city of splendid wines. If you are amotorist I recommend you the following route—after going over the world-famous Dome and having a meal on the Piazza: Orvieto-Lago di Bolsena (there is a charming little restaurant on the lake shore, and bathing in the lake is most pleasant; also, the catacombs behind the church are rather interesting)—Montefiascone (home of the world-famous “Est, est, est” wine, a few bottles of which you might like to put into your car, though you should not taste it until the end of the journey!)—Viterbo (an interesting medieval town)—Rome. The motor road reaches the centre of the Eternal City at the old Roman bridge, the Ponte Milvio.
Florence—Perugia—Assisi—Foligno—Rome
    Starting from Florence by a different route you reach Perugia, capital of Umbria, through Terontola. Perugia is magnificent from the artistic point of view and most pleasant as a town. Its summer university (July-October) is attended by many foreign students studying Italian, and it is during these months that Perugia is liveliest. Among the hotels the old Brufani is the most noted. There are two good restaurants—the Degli Artisti (Via dei Priori) and the Rosticceria (Via Alessi). For a superficial survey of the town half a day is sufficient. The “sights” include the Colleggio del Cambio, the Palazzo Communale and its picture gallery, the Fontana Maggiore, the Cathedral, and the Oratorio of S. Bernardino.
    Two omnibuses run daily from the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele to Assisi, the town of St. Francis. The motorist can complete the return journey in a day, but they are nevertheless advised to spend at least one night at Assisi, a town saturated with poetry. If possible, visit Assisi on a Sunday. It is true that there are many foreigners in the town on that day, but participation at a Mass celebrated by one of the Franciscan orders is an unforgettable experience. On the road between Perugia and Assisi stands the church of S. Maria degli Angeli, which was raised over the chapel of this Saint. Motorists starting from Perugia in the early morning may attend Mass here before continuing their journey to Assisi.
    The best hotel in Assisi is the Subasio. Its windows provide an excellent view of the valley, the scene of St.Francis’ life. Make every effort to attend Mass at the Basilica of S. Francesco at ten o’clock on Sunday morning. The Basilica consists of two churches built one on top of the other. Holy Mass accompanied by the Franciscan Choir is a memorable experience. Having seen the art treasures of the Basilica and the monastery, you ought to see the Giottos of the church of S. Chiara. You must also visit the S. Damiano and Eremo delle Carceri monasteries. It is only here, in the atmosphere of noble simplicity that Assisi presents, that you really learn to understand St. Francis. The simple, sunlit little terrace where St. Francis wrote his ode to the sun, the relics of St. Clara, the simple