1936 On the Continent

steps from the station. Good middle-class hotels are the Sachsenhof, between the Augustusplatz and the Buchhändlerviertel, and the Deutsche Haus in the Königsplatz, which are both under the same management and are very cheap and clean. I stayed at the latter.
    The Augustusplatz which I have mentioned is, together with a square in the town of Kassel, supposed to be the largest built-round square in Germany. It is surrounded by some of the most important buildings in Leipzig. Here is the New Theatre with its beautiful little swannery, here the marvellously organised Head Post Office, here the Art Museum and one of the most renowned institutions in Leipzig, the university, although only the principal building of it, as this ancient school is spread over several streets. The main buildings of the Fair town are grouped round the Augustusplatz, which, in spite of an enormous amount of traffic, is very dignified and is the headquarters of the commercial life of Leipzig. The roof café in one of the big buildings filled me with envy, and I wondered why we had nothing like it in London. Fresh air and a lovely view are the main features of these roof terraces. The Neue Theatre restaurant is very agreeable, whilst the Café Felsche, with its terrace and its excellent chocolate, has already acquired a historic reputation.
The famous Fairs of Leipzig
    The Fair town begins actually at the Augustusplatz and continues through the Petersstrasse, Alter Markt and Grimmaische Steinweg. I was not at Leipzig at the time of the Fairs, but everyone there spoke enthusiastically of the development of the Leipzig Spring and Autumn Fairs. Many towns have tried to compete with the Leipzig Fairs, and even if here and there they have had their success, the international worth and the 800-year-old reputation of the Leipzig Fairs cannot be equalled. In fifty exhibition palaces, of which one is underground under the market, samples of almost the whole world’s goods are collected together by more than 10,000 exhibitors. The main Fair is supplemented by the great technical and building Fair, housed in a modern building on the outskirts of thetown, near the Peoples’ War Memorial. An event of a special character is the traditional Book Fair, known all over the world of culture as “Bugra.” It is fitting that the great exhibition of the book trade should take place in Leipzig, as this is the headquarters of the publishing trade in Germany. Together with the most important book and music publishers there is the “Booksellers’ High School,” the stock exchange of the bookseller, where famous book sales take place and distinguished antiquaries are to be found. Most of these institutions are situated between the Augustusplatz and the German Library, and a whole district is called the “Booksellers’ quarter.” The State Library, with its beautiful building and unique organisation, includes practically all the printed works which have appeared in the German language or in Germany. Books, brochures and newspapers are collected and perfectly arranged for reference.
    Leipzig therefore takes a prominent place in German cultural life, due to this book trade, its university and its musical life. The Gewandthaus with its concerts is the foremost institution for the furtherance of classical music in Germany, and names like Nikisch, Furtwängler, are closely connected with its development. The High School of Music, called the Konservatorium, is also one of the best, but perhaps the most beautiful musical offering that Leipzig can make is its Thomanerchor. This choir of boys, whose voices have been compared to those of angels, sings twice in the week, on Friday evenings at 6 o’clock and Saturday afternoons at 1.30, in the old Thomas-Kirche. This music is an unforgettable experience even for laymen.
Leipzig: Shops and Inns
    One of the most unusual streets not only in Leipzig but in the whole world, the Leipziger Brühl, has to a large extent lost its significance during the last few years. The roadside exchange of the fur trade took place here every afternoon, and was principally carried on by Jews of all nations. It is obvious that as the result of the new regime in Germany, most of these merchants have had to seek other markets. In spite of this Leipzig, with its fur sales and highly developed skin-curing industry, is still influential in the international fur market.
    Although in the main Leipzig is a modern town, there is much to be seen that is