1936 On the Continent

Copenhagen.
    Sailing is good on the Sound with its many little harbours and summer resorts—who forgets those blue summer days nearing the Swedish coast, or the welcome for yachtsmen at Copenhagen?—on the Cattegat with its islands inhabited and deserted; green inland fjords; the ideally situated Aarhus; and farther south Funen with its “cruisers’ Paradise” Svendborg.
    Yachts from England can sail via Kiel Canal. Then yachtsmen promise you practically tideless Danish waters, long northern summer evenings, nice little harbours with trivial harbour dues and a welcome in English almost anywhere within a few hours’ sail. You are advised, though, to master the Danish buoy and “Brooms” system of marking shallows, to beware of winds through the channels, and you should have plain sailing.
X—WALKS IN THE BUSINESS QUARTER, COPENHAGEN
    Danish bacon, butter, cheese, eggs we all know, and the Danish co-operative methods of handling them. But Denmark has other concerns, from cement, machinery, diesel motors (visit Burmaister and Wain, Copenhagen), shipping (see the large Copenhagen Free Port—Frihavn), stoves that really heat, the best milk-can they say in the world, edible oils, aquavit to pencils, porcelain, silver and beers, to mention only a few of them. For the beers, goto taste them at Carlsberg and Tuborg breweries, each a small town in itself and worth a visit.
    In Copenhagen the big industrial and trade organisations have their offices, and the Danish Foreign Office its Trade Information Department at Christiansborg.
    Round Holmens Kanal are the banks and the lovely Stock Exchange (Børsen).
    For the best shops walk from Frederiksberggade (off Raadhusplads) straight on to Østergade, Bredgade and notice especially:
    Amber from the Baltic at the jewellers’ and perfumers’.
    Chocolates—Norfeld’s, Søberg’s, Anton Berg’s, Galle and Jessen’s, etc.
    Drapers and Big Stores—Fonnesbech, Illum, Crome and Goldsmith, and at Kongens Nytorv, the largest Magasin du Nord, all with the usual restaurant, writing and rest rooms.
    Flowers—These are lovely. I have met old travellers whose memory years afterwards of Copenhagen shops has been: “Ah! yes, the lovely flowers!”
    Furniture—especially Bo’s.
    Leather goods.
    Needlework at Therp’s in Bredgade. Ask for Danish hedebo, that “poetry of the needle,” and Tønder laces.
    Pastries and all kinds of lovely breads, renowned at Otto, St. Kongensgade off Kongens Nytorv, and farther off at Østerbrogade “Aux Petits Fours.”
    Perfumes at Breining and Otto Wolfke, Østergade.
    Porcelain at the showrooms near the Stork Fountain. Royal and Bing and Grøndahl Copenhagen porcelain is famous.
    Silver. Lovely silver shops, especially the world-famous Georg Jensen, who has made the everyday things perfect. A salt-cellar perhaps, a cocktail shaker, a little brooch in reposeful mat finish. Go and see them. Georg Jensen made for you and me, not just for the wealthy.
    Smokers’ requisites as in England, the usual English makes. Good Danish cigars at 30 to 40 øre each (less than 3d. or 4d.). Cheap Danish cigars about 15 øre. Ladies’ small cigars (“Cerutter”) about 10 øre. Sold at kiosks and tobacconists.
    Danish shops have fixed prices. You cannot bargain as in Eastern Europe.
    At the Permanent Exhibition of Danish Applied Art and Handicrafts at Vesterport near Central Station you have hand-weaves, silver, porcelain, embroidery, everything Danish at hand to choose from, even toys for the children—Danish bacon pigs perhaps in velvet or a toy made by an Esquimau mother away in Danish Greenland.
XI—FOR THE LADIES
    Almost everywhere in Denmark ladies can go alone. Years before English women, the Danish were in Parliament and most occupations. Some 25 per cent. of Copenhagen married women are now wage-earners, yet Danish women generally are excellent and practical housekeepers. Maids are hard-working and almost any little bit of a maid can cook an edible meal, but they have their liberty, which also means a latchkey.
    The Danish “smørrebrød “luncheon habit I have known adopted by English city girls. It can save pounds, time and health if taken on warm days in some city park (see Section III). Remember though that variety is the salt of the “smørrebrød.” To see this variety, go to Davidsen’s Restaurant in Copenhagen! Some Danish preserves and pickles for serving with meat and game are also worth noticing.
    For Danish goods see Section X.