1936 On the Continent

cafés, where good food and drink can be obtained at far below Western European prices. Close to the railway station are the market halls, which are so amply supplied that they cannot fail to impress the visitor.
    In Riga, and everywhere else in Latvia, a good table and good drinks have always been regarded as of paramount importance. There is meat, game and fish in plenty, including river salmon from the Daugava and succulent “baby herrings.” And if foreign wines are subject to high customs duties, there are in Latvia excellent whiskies (“Dzidrais” and “Kristaldzidrais” brands), as well as fairly good beer and excellent fruit wines that will help to make the visitor’s stay in the country tolerable.
    Fish at one time used to be so plentiful in Latvia that the Riga municipality issued an edict (similar to the one then in force in London), according to which master artisans were forbidden to feed their apprentices and journeymen on salmon more than six times a week. The position is very different now, though not because fish is less plentiful but because fish in various forms, particularly tinned, has become an important article of export. It will be gathered from this that Latvia is an Eldorado for the sport of fishing. Some of the rivers contain salmon trout.
    If you enter a restaurant in Riga, Liepaja or in any other town, for a hasty snack, you will experience some difficulty in making your choice, for the counters are laden with an enormous variety of foods that would satisfy the requirements of the most exacting gourmet. But in addition to cold snacks you can obtain a variety of hot dishes. Latvia throughout the centuries has been the scene of various different civilisations, and this is reflected in the cuisine. Although the city restaurants offer a mainly Western European cuisine, you will have no difficulty in detecting from the menu the influence of the Russian, Polish and Swedish cuisines. In addition, there are a number of special Latvian national dishes.
    Next to Riga the most important port and seaside resort is Liepaja (Libau). Ventspils (Windau) plays a considerable rôle in the country’s economic life owing to its ice-free port. Jelgava (Mitau), capital of the former Duchy of Kurland, and at present capital of the province of Zemgale, possesses a gem of architecture in the ducal castle, built by the famous eighteenth-century architect Count Rastrelli. The numerous small towns like Valmiera, Cesia, Kuldiga, Kandava, Saldus, etc., are mainly set in idyllic scenery and possess many historical relics. The town of Daugavpils occupies a special position among Latvian towns. It was once a Russian fortress (Dvinsk) and an important railway junction, and it still bears a Russian character, relieved, so to speak, by the presence of a large number of Jews among its inhabitants.
Opera
    If you visit Latvia during the season, which starts in September and ends in June, you will realise that theLetts hold the theatre in high esteem. In particular—and justly—we are proud of the National Opera in Riga. The Opera has a large number of excellent singers of both sexes and a fine orchestra conducted by eminent conductors. The management attaches considerable importance to the “dressing” of their shows. The Opera also has a ballet that ranks among the best in Europe. It has fallen to Latvia to carry on the traditions of the brilliant Russian ballets and hand them down to future generations.
    The drama is cultivated by several Lett, German and Russian theatres. There is a large number of tastefully decorated cinemas which are supplied by the biggest producing companies.
Mud Baths
    The Baltic Riviera, the wonderful woodland and downs of Jurmala, the seaside resort near Riga, is justly popular both with Latvians and foreigners, who come in increasing numbers to spend the summer here. Jurmala provides everything that can be expected of a seaside resort. The climate is mild, the air fragrant with the odour of the woods. The sea in summer is pleasantly warm and calm, while the sea-bottom is covered with fine sand. Accommodation at the hotels and numerous boarding-houses is available to suit all pockets. There are concerts, dance halls, sports. You can choose between the quiet Bulli, the busy Majori, and the more restful localities like Asari and Melluzi. If you prefer a simple, countrified life, you can stay at the prosperous fishing village of Kaugern. Not far from here is the mud and sulphur spa Kemeri,