1936 On the Continent

oranges, laurels, myrtle, broom, wisteria and date palms, but also numerous rare specimens which are exclusive to Dalmatia. The fisherman will find tunny fishing carried on all along the coast, besides the fascinating sport of night fishing, either with nets or harpoons, by the flare of carbide lamps. In most places he will be able to fish free of charge. There is also a good deal of coral and sponge fishing among the islands. The huntsman may encounter not only plenty of partridges, pheasants, quail and hares,but if he cares to climb into the higher and wilder mountains, even a bear. For the yachtsman the coast provides countless wind-protected bays. And finally, the athlete will be able to choose between aquatic sports, such as rowing, water-polo and swimming, and tennis, all the larger bathing resorts along the coast being provided with hard courts.
Dalmatian Peasants
    The Dalmatian peasants are most interesting. Tall, lithe and extremely handsome, they combine good looks with an aristocratic mien and a great sense of dignity. The people of Konavlje, south of Dubrovnik, in their extremely picturesque costume, are regarded by many competent judges as the handsomest people in Europe. Their beauty is enhanced by the picturesqueness of their costume, which is mostly black, red and gold, while the women wear small caps or embroidered kerchiefs and aprons. Dalmatian embroideries are very striking, showing a rare combination of bright colours with a refined sense for the daintiest shades.
    Accommodation throughout Dalmatia and along the coast is good. There are altogether about 10,000 beds which are available to visitors during the season, so that there is no difficulty in finding rooms, unless it be at the height of the season at Dubrovnik. Dubrovnik, Cirkvenica, Split, Hvar and Biograd-na-moru have first-class hotels. In the other places the hotels are good and comfortable without being luxurious. Private houses and pensions may be recommended all along the coast, with the proviso that “Putnik” is consulted beforehand. Average rates for first-class hotels with full board range from 90 to 140 dinars per day, for good hotels and pensions from 70 to 100 dinars, while in smaller pensions and private houses, especially on the islands and in less frequented places, the charge is from 50 dinars up. In the winter rates are about 30 per cent. below the above. Private furnished rooms can be obtained at from 300 to 600 dinars a month. Most restaurants give lunch and supper at prices ranging from 450 to 800 dinars a month, the food in each case being abundant. The above prices include service and municipal tax. In short, you can manage on 10 shillingsa day, and if you care to spend a pound, you may live like a duke.
    Boats can be hired for 10 to 15 dinars an hour, and charges for tennis courts and aquatic sports are equally reasonable.
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Sušak
    The coast can be approached by boat either from Trieste or the Jugoslav port of
Sušak
. Sušak (Hotel Jadran) is a commercial town, and since the incorporation of Fiume into Italy the chief commercial port of north-west Jugoslavia. Its chief sights are the old Terset fort and chapel, 412 steps high, with a beautiful view of the bay, and the small river spanned by a bridge that marks the frontier with Italy. A boat excursion can be made to the picturesque bay of
Bakar
, a small town huddled exotically with its old buildings at the foot of high cliffs in an almost lake-like bay. Bakar is also noted for its champagne, “Bakarska vodica.”
Kraljevica
(Hotel Almiš), at the mouth of the bay, is a pleasant little place, of interest to the English tourist because of the Yarrow shipyard there. It has a dense fir wood, good bathing sands, a sanatorium for children, and—for the historically minded—a Frankopani fort and hall where the nobles conspired against Leopold I.
Cirkvenica
    The most popular resort of the Croatian coast is
Cirkvenica
(Hotels Miramar, Thearapia and Dr. Seidl), partly because of its excellent wind-protected beach and the high salt content of 4 per cent. in the sea, and partly because of its mildly fashionable touch and well-organised entertainments and sports. Lying picturesquely amidst a good park of cypresses, palms, laurels and rosemary, it is an excellent starting-point for long bus excursions to the lakes of Plitvice, for boating expeditions to the islands, the Soine caves, and for pleasant rambles along the Vinodol vineyards. All these places may be reached