1936 On the Continent

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The Cenotaph
    In the middle of Whitehall, in solitary dignity and simplicity, stands the Cenotaph, a national memorial to those who fell in the War. There are always a few wreaths at the foot of this memorial. All men passing it raise their hats in homage to the dead. On the 11th November, on Armistice Day, a memorial service accompanied by military ceremonial is held at the Cenotaph. The King is usually present.
    And Scotland Yard, known at least by name to all readers of newspapers and detective stories, is also in Whitehall. London’s police headquarters, which, curiously enough, was built on a site originally reserved for an Opera House, takes its name from the small street in which it stands. But beyond a certain illusion which the name and fame of Scotland Yard has probably engendered in the visitor’s mind, there is nothing impressive about the building itself. It is a sombre, almost ramshackle building overcrowded with offices, and is rather small.
Army Recruiting
    But now that we are here, there is something really interesting that we must not miss. Opposite Scotland Yard is the recruiting headquarters of the British Army.The countless coloured posters with which the walls are plastered, some of them depicting the attractions of military service with the aid of humorous drawings, and the peculiar competition that is apparent between the different sections of the Army, are most illuminating as regards the organisation of a non-conscript army. This friendly method of recruiting creates a strange impression, particularly on those who come from conscription countries.
    At the far end of Whitehall, the visitor faces the magnificent building of the Houses of Parliament, the highest expression of English public life.
    A few hundred yards from the centre of government is the peace and beauty of St. James’s Park, with its trees, flower beds and pond, a jewel of nature set amidst, and affording a comprehensive view of royal, military and political England. There is a little bridge in St. James’s Park, from which everything can be seen in perspective—and perspective lends enchantment even to that which is not beautiful in a close view. Viewed from here, Buckingham Palace, the outlines of the government offices, the slender towers of Westminster Palace, blend into a fascinating harmony, all the more fascinating because it has not been planned, but has developed accidentally, like a natural miracle.
The Parks
    And this brings us once more to another world, the world of London’s parks. In other cities the parks are laid out artificially, as a spot of colour amidst a jungle of walls, without a life of their own, and with their character determined by the surrounding district. In London, which has more open spaces than any other city, the parks are nothing but a piece of nature preserved in the original state. Perhaps this is only possible in England, where the whole countryside looks like one vast park. In order to create a park, it is only necessary to fence round a piece of the countryside.
Hyde Park
    That such open spaces have been preserved in the middle of the vast city, shows the wisdom of Londoners, whoseheart is always in the country, and who have thus created for themselves the possiblity of returning to nature every now and then, even if only for a few minutes.
    Each of London’s parks has a different aspect. The most important in the life of London, is Hyde Park, which covers an area of 360 acres, and extends from Park Lane to Kensington Gardens, an adjacent park. As these two parks are contiguous, there is an apparently endless stretch of green in the middle of the city, which determines the character of London almost as much as its streets and squares.
    Hyde Park, which naturally has many beautiful and picturesque corners, is the resort of both the rich and mighty and the utterly destitute. Religion, politics, love and sport live together in peace in this vast area. For instance Rotten Row is only a few hundred yards from Marble Arch, but they represent two different worlds.
Speakers’ Corner
    The Marble Arch corner of Hyde Park is the meeting place of those who have nothing to gain and nothing to lose. This is the famous and unique spot where open-air speakers, without special permission or interference from the police, hold impromptu meetings, at which they propound their views on any subject they happen to be interested in, from religion to morals and politics, and from a personal grievance