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Don't Sweat the Aubergine

Don't Sweat the Aubergine

Titel: Don't Sweat the Aubergine Kostenlos Bücher Online Lesen
Autoren: Nicholas Clee
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back into the warm saucepan, and stir them over a low heat to dry them and rough up their edges. 4
    Take the roasting pan out of the oven and tip in the potatoes, turning them in the sizzling fat. 5 Keep the potatoes separate, so that they roast rather than steam. Put them back into the oven. Check them after 20 minutes; if they are browned underneath, turn them. (Using my oven, and my roasting pan, I can leave them for half an hour.) If you want to turn them again on to their remaining pale sides, do; they should be tender in 45 to 50 minutes. 6 Tilting the pan so that the superfluous fat falls away, remove the potatoes to a colander lined with kitchen paper. Add salt, toss a little, and serve.
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VARIATIONS
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    Five minutes before the end of cooking, add some rosemary, stripped from its branches, and stir in. Put some garlic cloves to roast with the potatoes – but beware of cooking the garlic for longer than 30 minutes, or you might find that there’s no pulp left. You could also take a whole bulb, rub a little olive oil over it, wrap it loosely in foil, and put it in the pan with the potatoes. Roast potatoes are delicious with the creamy garlic you squeeze from the husks.
    Or don’t parboil them. Simply peel them, rinse them in water, pat them dry (to avoid the violent reaction of water and hot fat, and to begin the browning process as soon as possible), and turn them in the hot fat as above. The point of parboiling – about which more below – is to dispel surface starch and to rough up the surfaces of the potatoes, enabling them to crisp. The surface of a non-parboiled roast potato may be slimy and chewy. And it will stick to all but the most efficient non-stick surfaces. Nevertheless, the potato will have a concentrated, earthy sweetness that a boiled one will have lost.
    One of my favourite dishes is shoulder of lamb, slow-roasted above a bed of sliced potatoes, which have been mixed with garlic and rosemary and covered with water or stock (Lamb boulangère – see here ). When the lamb is ready, you remove it from the oven, turning up the heat to brown the potatoes and evaporate most of the liquid. The potatoes are deliciously imbued with fat and juices from the meat.
    Do not parboil new potatoes before roasting them (see below).
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WHY YOU DO IT
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    1 • What fat, and how much? Animal fats – beef dripping, lard, goose or duck fat – work best, some claim. I think that olive, sunflower or vegetable oil work fine. Use enough to provide a layer in the pan, and to coat all the potatoes with some to spare.
    2 • What potatoes? I have assumed that you’re using floury, maincrop potatoes – although roasts made with Desirées are, I have found, a little dry. You can roast new potatoes too, of course; but I don’t agree with those who say that you should leave them in their skins, which, in my experience, go tough. So peel them or, in the case of Jerseys and the like, scrape them thoroughly; put them straight into the hot oil. Less starchy than maincrop varieties, they don’t benefit from parboiling.
    3 • Parboiling . Three procedures help to give you crunchy roast potatoes: parboiling them, drying them, and tipping them into hot fat.
    I prefer parboiling to steaming. Steaming does not seem to get rid of all the surface starch, and the potatoes are more likely to stick to the roasting pan. Some writers insist that you simmer the potatoes until they are tender and nearly falling apart. I do not think that they need to spend more than 5 minutes in the simmering water. It’s the surface of the potatoes that concerns you; the insides will cook in the oven, and will be just as fluffy. You don’t need to start the potatoes from cold, and you can keep the water at a rolling boil if you like (see Boiled potatoes, here ). The point here is to cook and bash up the surfaces – processes that the salt in the water will hasten.
    4 • Rough surfaces . Stirring the potatoes in the hot pan dries them, so that they do not repel the fat when they hit it; it also roughs up the surfaces, helping them to crisp. Some cooks dust the potatoes in flour to create a crispy surface; I don’t think that’s necessary.
    5 • Hot fat . I have tried turning the potatoes in cold oil, direct from the bottle; I have also tried roasting cold potatoes. Both options work, but a hot, dry potato tipped into sizzling fat acquires the crunchiest surface.
    6 • Ready in 50 minutes . Assuming they’re on their own in a gas

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