Training for Climbing, 2nd: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Performance (How To Climb Series)

self-assessment test takes the white light of your climbing performance and, like a prism, disassembles it into the rainbow of colors representing specific skills. The results will reveal your true (not perceived) strengths and weaknesses—and possibly even an unknown Achilles’ heel that must be addressed if you are to ever reach your potential (or break through a long-term plateau). With this knowledge, you can create the most effective training program for you !
    In taking the assessment that follows, it’s important to read each question once and then immediately answer it based on your recent experiences on the rock. Don’t read anything into the questions; nor should you try to figure out their focus and shade your answers in any way. Instead of working in the book, consider making a photocopy of the test pages in order to maintain an unmarked self-assessment test with which to work (or copy again) in the future. Of course, it would be ideal to date your test and file it for future reference. Comparing successive self-assessments is a powerful way to track your long-term improvement in each area of the performance triad.
    Exercise: Self-Assessment Test
     
    Answer each question by circling the number that best characterizes your performance. To obtain the most accurate results, it’s essential that you score each question according to your most recent experiences on the rock. Pause for a moment and review recent climbs to determine the correct answer for each question. Do not overanalyze the questions, however, or try to read between the lines—you will have a chance to ponder the meaning of your answers when you tally the final results.
    0 = almost always
    1 = often
    2 = about half the time
    3 = occasionally
    4 = seldom
    5 = never
     
    1. My footwork (use of feet) deteriorates during the hardest part of a climb.
    0 1 2 3 4 5
     
    2. My forearms balloon and my grip begins to fail even on routes that are easy for me.
    0 1 2 3 4 5
     
    3. On hard sequences, I have difficulty stepping onto critical footholds.
    0 1 2 3 4 5
     
    4. I get anxious and tight as I head into crux sequences.
    0 1 2 3 4 5
     
    5. My biceps (upper arms) pump out before my forearms.
    0 1 2 3 4 5
     
    6. I have difficulty hanging on small, necessary-to-use holds.
    0 1 2 3 4 5
     
    7. I blow sequences I have wired and know by heart.
    0 1 2 3 4 5
     
    8. I stall at the start of crux sequences. I end up having to hang on the rope and rest before I can give it a good, solid try.
    0 1 2 3 4 5
     
    9. I climb three or four days in a row.
    0 1 2 3 4 5
     
    10. I get sewing-machine leg (“Elvis leg”).
    0 1 2 3 4 5
     
    11. I pump out on overhanging climbs no matter how big the holds.
    0 1 2 3 4 5
     
    12. I get out of breath when I climb.
    0 1 2 3 4 5
     
    13. I make excuses for why I might fail on a route before I even begin to climb.
    0 1 2 3 4 5
     
    14. I miss hidden holds on routes.
    0 1 2 3 4 5
     
    15. I have difficulty hanging on to small sloping holds or pockets.
    0 1 2 3 4 5
     
    16. I grab quick draws, the rope, or other gear instead of risking a fall trying a hard move of which I am unsure.
    0 1 2 3 4 5
     
    17. On a typical climb, I feel like much of my body weight is hanging on my arms.
    0 1 2 3 4 5
     
    18. I get very sore the day after climbing at the crags.
    0 1 2 3 4 5
     
    19. I have difficulty visualizing myself successfully climbing the route before I leave the ground.
    0 1 2 3 4 5
     
    20. I cannot reach key holds on difficult routes.
    0 1 2 3 4 5
     
    21. On overhanging routes and roofs, I have difficulty keeping my feet from cutting loose and swinging out.
    0 1 2 3 4 5
     
    22. While climbing, I get distracted by activity on the ground and/or I think about whether the belayer is paying attention.
    0 1 2 3 4 5
     
    23. I have difficulty reading sequences.
    0 1 2 3 4 5
     
    24. I get a flash pump on the first climb of the day.
    0 1 2 3 4 5
     
    25. I have more difficulty climbing when people are watching.
    0 1 2 3 4 5
     
    26. My feet unexpectedly pop off footholds.
    0 1 2 3 4 5
     
    27. I experience elbow pain when I climb on a regular basis.
    0 1 2 3 4 5
     
    28. When lead climbing a safe route, I have difficulty pushing myself to the complete limit.
    0 1 2 3 4 5
     
    29. I have difficulty finding midroute rest positions and shakeouts.
    0 1 2 3 4 5
     
    30. My first attempt on a hard route is usually better than my second or third attempts of the day.
    0 1 2 3 4 5
     
     
     

Looking at Your Test Results
     
    Record