Training for Climbing, 2nd: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Performance (How To Climb Series)

mind’s eye on demand. The more precise and focused your picture and written goal, the easier it will be for you to zero in on the target and take actions that will someday lead you to realize the goal.
    Next, create a mission statement that summarizes the purpose of each goal-setting time frame, such as “Short term, I strive for the most effective ninety-minute workout possible” or “Medium term, I am committed to redpointing my first 5.11 by the end of the summer.” Now share these goals with your climbing partner, a close friend, or significant other—someone who will hold you accountable and help remind you of the mission.
    Finally, write down what one or two (or more) things you will give up in order to reach your short-, medium-, and long-term goals. This vital step is missing from most conventional goal-setting exercises, and it may be the number one reason why so many people fail to achieve their big goals in life. It’s a fact that you cannot add something new and achieve the ideal outcome without sacrificing something else in its place. Ponder this powerful idea. It may explain why some of your past or present goals remain elusive.
SHORT-TERM GOALS
     
    Short-term goals define your daily game plan. They help focus your thoughts and actions so that you are not swayed by what others are doing and don’t waste precious time on less important activities (TV, partying, surfing the Net, excessive socializing). The more hectic your life, the more crucial it is that you spend a few minutes before bed or first thing in the morning doing some short-term goal setting. Folks with less difficult daily schedules may only need to set short-term goals relating to the workout du jour. Begin by writing down the primary mission of the workout, then list the specific exercises, sets, and reps as well as the approximate amount of time you will dedicate to each part of the workout (see “An Example of Short-Term Goal Setting” below). Don’t forget to list what you will give up (relative to previous days or your peers) in order to fulfill these short-term commitments.
MEDIUM-TERM GOALS
     
    Medium-term goals give shape and direction to your schedule over the course of weeks and months. This planning is best done on a calendar so you can effectively dovetail your workouts and climbing trips with your other nonclimbing activities. Try to roughly plan things out a few months in advance (see the “Setting Medium-Term Goals” exercise below).
    First, block in the big events such as climbing trips, competitions, work and family obligations, and the like. Next, write in your proposed workout and climbing schedule, with special attention to maintaining enough rest days in the game plan. With the most important items now in place, you can fill in the many little, less important things in life where time allows (or this can be done on an ad hoc basis). Remember to sum up your medium-term goals with one overriding primary goal, as well as listing the activities you will forfeit in order to attain this lofty goal.
LONG-TERM GOALS
     
    Long-term goal setting is a fun and invaluable activity in which you condense onto paper the numerous “dream” or “I wish” goals floating around in your mind. If there is to be any chance of them ever becoming reality, it’s vital that they be liberated from the dreamland of your mind and put down in black and white (see the “Setting Long-Term Goals” exercise below). A magical force begins to act in your life when you write down these mega goals—your subconscious mind will go to work day and night on achieving them, and your conscious mind will suddenly find them more believable (and achievable).
    An Example of Short-Term Goal Setting
     
    TODAY’S MISSION
     
    Focus on improving my footwork and conserving energy by practicing skills and techniques.
     
     
    WHAT I WILL GIVE UP TO ACHIEVE THIS GOAL
     
    The usual bouldering games and competitions at the gym.
    For today, I’ll stay off all routes that are beyond my on-site ability.
    I won’t rush home to watch TV.
     
    WHAT I WILL DO
    1. Warm up with fifteen minutes of light bouldering, gentle stretching, and two sets of pull-ups.
    2. Perform fifteen minutes of the traverse-training drill with focus on light grip, precise footwork, and smooth movement.
    3. Toprope several climbs within one number grade of my limit with the focus on practicing technique, not performance outcome (whether or not I fall).
    My practice goals are to