Training for Climbing, 2nd: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Performance (How To Climb Series)

strength training for climbing ever published. As an intensely practical person with a background in math and science, I have always felt it important to delve into the theory and application of cutting-edge sports science. Transferring this technology to training for climbing is vital to unlocking the most effective training methods and strategies. As you read these chapters, I trust you will gain new insight into the physiology of climbing performance and thus become a more physiologically effective student of training for climbing.
    The concluding chapters 9 through 11 cover the often overlooked (or ignored) subjects of performance nutrition, recovery, and proper treatment and prevention of climbing injuries. Becoming a complete climber requires that you embrace these subjects with the same fervor as you would in executing your training program or plotting your next climb. Throughout the text, I have footnoted the relevant scientific literature so you can peruse the nitty-gritty details if you are so impassioned. These references and other useful information can be found in the back of the book.
    To glean the greatest benefit from Training for Climbing, you are encouraged to employ active reading techniques such as underlining key passages, putting a star next to the most meaningful strategies, and taking notes for later review. Try lifting the most powerful phrases and posting them in places where you will see them throughout the day. Review these highlighted passages and your notes at least once a week, then reread the entire book in three months and, again, in one year. Not only will this reinforce your understanding and mastery of the concepts, but you also will gain new insight and distinctions as you become a different person at each read-through.
    As you cast off into the depths of this book, I want to wish you success and happiness climbing through this world of wonder. Though we may never meet, we are connected through our shared passion for climbing. I am grateful for you taking the time to read this book, and I hope you find the material entertaining and immensely beneficial. I welcome your feedback, and look forward to hearing from you after some grand success that undoubtedly awaits you. Here’s wishing you many safe and wonderful days on the rock!
    Technique Photos: A User’s Guide
     
    Climbing is a vertical dance requiring precise hand and foot “steps,” body positions, and movement. Unfortunately, this dance is sometimes difficult to illustrate on the static pages of a book. In Training for Climbing I’ve adopted, from college biomechanics texts, a method of labeling instructional photos with words and symbols that depict the application of force on hand- and footholds. I hope these enhanced photos will underscore the importance of body awareness and help you learn proper technique. Here are the three classes of symbols to look for:
     
     
    1. Center of Gravity and Line of Gravity
    The earth’s gravitational pull is most concentrated at your center of gravity—the theoretical point at which gravity’s pull acts on you. Standing with your arms by your sides, the center of gravity for males is about an inch above the navel, while for females it averages an inch or two below the navel. (The changing arm and leg positions of a climber in motion, however, can cause the center of gravity to shift side to side and up and down.) Center of gravity is designated here by a bullet or circle, and the earth’s gravitational pull, or line of gravity, is indicated by a dashed line and arrow pointing downward.
     
    2. Force Vectors
    When you climb, you ascend by contracting your muscles to generate force—a push or pull—that is applied to the rock via the hand and foot points of contact. The direction and amount of force applied at a point of contact is called a force vector. Force vectors are represented in this book diagrammatically by arrows. Each arrow’s head depicts the direction you should apply force, while the size of the arrow is scaled to the amount of force—a larger arrow means more force, a smaller one less. You’ll find small, medium, and large arrows here.
     
    3. Finesse and Dynamic Moves
    Of course the purpose of climbing is to go up . Still, sometimes the most efficient way to do that is by twisting—or flagging, deadpointing, lunging, or other angular and dynamic movements. Such finesse movements are illustrated with a dotted line and an arrow.

     
    Photo Symbols
     

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