1936 On the Continent

not natural for anyone on holiday in Spain to fall ill, but it has been known to happen. What is the tourist thus afflicted to do in a foreign country whose language he does not speak at all, or only imperfectly? The answer is—consult the nearest British Consul. Spanish medical men are, of course, as good as any, but their standard is somewhat different from what you are used to, and a doctor recommended by the British Consul—and where there is no Consul, by a British resident—will inspire greater confidence than a medico chosen at random from a directory or recommended by the waiter at the hotel. In urgent cases the traveller has no choice, and then he must be satisfied with the services of the first medical man who can be reached.
    To return to Valencia, one of the
fiestas
, held on March 18th and 19th, will remind the English visitor of Guy Fawkes. This is the
Fallade San José
, when elaborate structures are set up in the streets, with life-size figures, which are burned at midnight on March 19th. This
fiesta
is sometimes used to satirise political personages.
    To digress for a moment to the subject of politics, Spain is at the moment a Republic under a regime of theLeft, and there are naturally many signs of this in the form of flags and the like. Also, nowadays, you hardly ever see a priest or a monk in clerical garb, the priesthood having been driven underground. But it may safely be said that the internal politics of the country do not in any way interfere with the foreign tourist, who will be well advised to express no opinions about them. As a guest in a hospitable country there is really no call to criticise the Spaniard as a political entity merely because he is different from ourselves.
    To come back to the
fiestas
, we have already mentioned that the month of May is one long
fiesta
in Valencia. To describe all this in detail would require more space than is available here, and I will only say that practically the whole month is occupied by religious and civil processions, floral festivities, concerts, bullfights, etc.
    Another long “do” lasts from December 24th till January 22nd. This is of ancient origin, but no less gay than the May
fiestas
. Then, of course, there are the ceremonies, processions and entertainments of Holy Week. If you are any good at arithmetic, you can easily confirm that Valencia has more holidays than working days.
True Lovers of Art
    Valencia is, in aspect at any rate, not an ancient city. It has modern buildings that challenge the sky and all the other up-to-date things you expect to find in a modern city. The Old Town, however, will satisfy your desire for picturesqueness and the cathedral your interest in fine architecture and sacred objects. The Museo Provincial de Pinturas, near the old gateway of the Torres de Serranos, contains a number of fine pictures by Velazquez, Goya, etc.
    This reminds me of a true story illustrating the Spanish peasant’s love of art. In the church of an obscure Spanish village a painting by an old master was discovered and the director of the Prado sent down an emissary to bring it away. The villagers gathered round the church, and they were so hostile that the Madrid expert had to beat a hasty retreat. The director of the Prado was both surprisedand gratified to learn about the peasants’ love of great painting, unfortunately, later he found that the villagers did not really mind being deprived of the masterpiece, provided every one of them was paid a certain number of pesetas.
    However, while you are in Valencia you ought to see the
Lonja de la Seda
or silk exchange, and you may also witness in the environs of the city how the busy worm toils for the benefit of my lady.
    Of course, Valencia has trams, buses, motor-coaches for excursions, air services to various parts, and boats and steamers for sea excursions, the port being about 2 miles from the city. There are also English church services on Calle Ciscar and the Seamen’s Institute, from which facts you will conclude that there is an English colony in Valencia. By the way, do not be surprised if in the course of your peregrinations through Spain you encounter more than once—generally as managers of this or that—English-speaking gentlemen whose names begin with “Mac.”
Hotels
    Among the hotels the Reina Victoria, Palace and Ingles are excellent, though the España and a number of other similar hotels are also satisfactory. Among the restaurants, La Habaña on Calle Pintor