1936 On the Continent

you feel as though you were walking in the midst of an existing civilisation.
    Foreign tourists are generally taken to Trapani, but in my humble opinion even the most conscientious tourist need not trouble about Trapani. Instead, he can continue by train from Selinonte straight to Agrigento, where he will find many interesting sights, and also excellent hotels (“Grande Hotel des Temples,” etc.), and a good restaurant (“San Leone”). There is little to see in the new part of the town, apart from the Dome, which is as beautiful as the Domes of all the other Italian towns. On the other hand, the old town has some wonderfully well preserved Doric temples which can be visited by cab in three hours. The Concordia is, next to the Theseion in Athens, the best preserved Greek temple. In addition, there are the temples of Juno, Hercules, Jupiter and Castor and Pollux, all of which are more or less in a good state of preservation. Do not be in a hurry in viewing these temples, and if you happen to be visiting them in the afternoon wait until sunset, when the graceful outlines of the Doric columns against the evening sky will for ever impress on your memory the city of Akragas of 2,500 years ago, whose inhabitants prayed to their gods in these temples.
    A lovely, unforgettable walk will take you to Rupe Atenea, which gives an excellent view of the whole district of Agrigento. Here, too, it is best to wait till dusk and, sitting on the ruins of the Temple of Minerva, to watch the classic scenery as it becomes enveloped in darkness.
Taormina
    Taormina is said to have been founded in 396 B.C. by settlers who had fled from the Greek Isle of Naxos. During the intervening 2,331 years Taormina in the course of its varied history has always remained an asylum for refugees. Taormina lies in lovely country above the sea, opposite to, yet at a convenient distance from, Aetna, and its perpetually blue sky, its flowers and citrus groves aresufficient to comfort any refugee for what he has left behind. Formerly Taormina was the refuge of political exiles, to-day it is the resort of voluntary exiles from the noise and tumult of our strenuous modern life who come here to rest. The principal season in Taormina lasts from September till June, during which time the well-to-do fill the gorgeous luxury hotels, whose gardens rival the magnificent parks of Imperial Rome. From June till September, when the weather is very hot, only the second-class hotels are open. The best boarding-house, Schuler’s, is also available in the principal season only. Between October and May it is advisable to book rooms in advance, as even in these times of economic crises it may happen that all the best hotels and boarding-houses are full up.
    Taormina is, above all, a summer resort, so that it is not often visited by tourists on account of its sights. However, it has a fine Greek theatre, where a festival play season is given each year. The top of the Cavea gives an unforgettable view of Aetna and the surrounding district. Taormina’s charming Medieval and Renaissance palaces and its thirteenth-century cathedral are in harmony with the refined atmosphere of this luxury resort.
    Having thus praised Taormina to the skies, we may now reveal how you can get there. It is a little less than an hour’s journey from Messina by train or car, and those who do not intend to go beyond Palermo may stop here for a few days on their way to Syracuse.
Catania
    On the other hand, if you wish to visit the interior of Sicily, you are advised to travel by the Enna-Catania line. The train passes through some wonderful scenery. There is little to be said about Catania. Next to Palermo it is the most important town in Sicily, and is mainly noted for the fact that the Aetna tours start from here. However, now we are here let us visit the Dome, which contains the tomb of the great Italian composer Vincenzo Bellini, and includes the chapel of S. Agatha, the Castello Ursino, which dates from the time of the Emperor Frederick II, the church of S. Nicolo, which is the biggest in Sicily and from the roof of which a wonderful view may be obtained, and, finally, the Greek theatre and the amphitheatre.All this can be done in half a day, after which we can turn our attention to the Aetna excursion. Catania is quite close to Aetna, and you will frequently encounter in the city traces of former eruptions and earthquakes.
Aetna
    Up till a few years ago it was very difficult to reach Aetna, but