1936 On the Continent

Rhône and passes the village of St. Maurice, which isone of the oldest settlements in the valley. The abbey at St. Maurice is known to have been in existence at the end of the fourth century and is the oldest one in Switzerland. Here was quartered the Theban Legion under the Centurion Mauritius, after whom the settlement was renamed when he and his troops had been massacred for their loyalty to the Christian religion. After St. Maurice we come to Bex, the junction for Gryon, Chesières, Villars and Bretaye, all of which are fine winter sports centres, more particularly Villars. The village is in a delightful position on a sunny plateau in front of a pine forest, through which a tiny mountain stream runs in summer. There is a fine view, including the Diablerets, the Dent aux Favres, the Grand and Petit Muveran, the Dent de Morcles and the Dent du Midi.
Geneva
    A rack railway takes you up the Chamossaire to Bretaye, from where one of the finest views in this part of the country is to be obtained. Bretaye also offers a suitable start for a numberless variety of ski tours. The skating rinks at Villars are among the best in Switzerland, and while a number of English visitors are to be found, the atmosphere is mainly international. Fêtes are held on the ice, and the picture made by the skaters, all holding chinese lanterns and the innumerable coloured lights glowing against the snow, is fairylike. Villars is a very lovely place and well worth a visit. Before reaching Bex the railway branches off to Monthey at the mouth of the Val d’Illiez, in which Champèry is the principal village, lying at the foot of the Dent du Midi and the Dents Blanches.
    In the summer many fine climbs can be made from here, while in the winter there is ski-ing and skating in plenty. The peasant costume in the Val d’Illiez is very unusual. During the week the women wear long trousers and a waistcoat, whilst on fête days and Sundays they wear knee-breeches with embroidered braces, a short waistcoat and a red kerchief on their heads.
    The railway continues from Monthey to Bouveret on the shore of Lake Geneva. From here there is a line to Geneva along the lakeside, passing through Evian-les-Bainsand Thonon-les-Bains, but as these spas lie on the French side of the lake we will not stop there, but continue straight on to Geneva, world-famous as the seat of the League of Nations. Geneva is so old a city that the date of its foundation is not known, but it was already a town of considerable importance in Roman times. Geneva stands at the foot of the lake, on both banks of the Rhône, and wide boulevards and fine quays line the riverside and radiate in every direction. The chief aspect of Geneva is modern and the League of Nations Palace on the Quai du Mont Blanc is one of the finest modern buildings in the town. Although Geneva was the last of the twenty-two cantons to enter the Confederation it has always played an influential part in Swiss history. During the Reformation it was very much to the fore; Calvin lived and preached there and became the virtual dictator of the town. It is due to his influence that the interiors of so many churches in the canton are austere and bare. A city of enormous wealth, Geneva is an important commercial centre. In 1864 a convention was held in Geneva which resulted in the foundation of the International Red Cross, and Geneva may now be said to be the capital of the world.
The Cité
    The harbour of Geneva is very fine, and in it can be seen the picturesque craft similar to the Mediterranean feluccas which are not seen on any of the other Swiss lakes. We get a marvellous view across the lake of the Salève mountains, the Alps and Mont Blanc. Although the Salève actually lies in France, it can easily be ascended by mountain railway, and from the summit there is an extensive view of the lake, the Alps and the Jura. Geneva is the home of the watchmaking industry, and a collection of Geneva watches can be seen at the History and Art Museum.
    I do not propose to take you on a conducted tour of Geneva, for you can obtain all the information you want from the Official Enquiry Office at 3, Place de Bergues, which is maintained for the purpose. In spite of its predominantly modern character, Geneva also has its old part, the Cité, which clusters round the cathedral,and here we realise a little just how old Geneva is. The cathedral was built about the twelfth century, but has been spoiled by later additions. Next to it you