1936 On the Continent

used to be the foremost luxury hotel in Germany: its restaurant, called the Walterspiel, is characterised by its quietness, elegance and very choice cuisine. The Regina Palace has an air of modernity and its bar and tea-room are favourite rendezvous for young international society. Many crowned heads have stayed at theKontinental, which, like the Bayerische Hof, has a character of its own. One must reckon on spending 10 to 12 marks in any of the well-known hotels if one has a room with bath. I myself stayed at the Hotel Leinfelder, which is very central and somewhat cheaper than the foregoing but quite as comfortable. On an equality with this are the Königshof and the Parkhotel. Those hotels also which are connected with well-known beerhouses are very congenial and provide good Bavarian cooking. Amongst these are the Schottenhamml at the station and the Hotel Wagner near the Stachus, the central traffic point in Munich.
Things to see in Munich
    Every visitor is likely to find something to his own particular interest in Munich. He who is interested in art will find some of the most famous German museums, the old and the new Pinakothek, where the masterpieces of classic and modern painters are collected; the Glyptothek, where many of the best sculptures are to be seen, and first and foremost the buildings in the town itself—the castle, the many beautiful churches, amongst which the Frauenkirche is a landmark in Munich, whilst the Ludwigskirche is an architectural masterpiece. Munich has the advantage over other German towns in that her construction in earlier times was guided by fine artistic motives: the Wittelsbachers, who owned much of the town, were obsessed by a passion for art, and during the nineteenth century engaged the services of some of the foremost German builders. These introduced into the town the fine classic style of building as well as a genuine Roman style, and at the same time the most valuable specimens of the Baroque period were preserved.
    Whilst the art collections, in spite of their richness and their excellence, have their counterparts in Paris, Rome, Florence and Dresden, Munich has created in the German Museum something which is absolutely unique. In a completely new, living form, this great display shows the whole development of technical knowledge and science. Days and days can be spent on this overwhelming collection, always finding something new so that one marvels at the colossal work that went to its organisation. Its creator, Oskar von Miller, has by his work inscribed his name inthe pages of the history of culture. The German Museum is the only one that lies somewhat apart, all the others are grouped about the beautiful squares, Königsplatz, Max Joseph Platz and Odeonsplatz. On the last is also the Feldherrnhalle, a sensational war memorial, which is now a sanctuary of the Third Reich, as in 1923 the memorable street fight took place near here in which a number of National Socialists were killed. At that time Adolf Hitler and Ludendorff led the advance of the National Socialists. On the anniversary of these events there are great demonstrations at the Feldherrnhalle, and a new monument celebrates the fame of the martyrs of the Third Reich.
    The Brown House also was intensely interesting to me—it is the headquarters of the National Socialist Party, and is now being considerably enlarged. Adolf Hitler himself designed the interior, and he has had a great deal to do with the cultural organisation of Munich.
Munich Beerhouses
    Quite as stimulating as the days are the evenings in Munich. The most typical institutions are the beerhouses, already referred to, called “Bräus.” Most of these lie in the Kaufinger Strasse and the Neubauerstrasse, leading from the Karlsplatz to the Marienplatz, and they are crowded close together. Here in the early morning hours the true Municher is to be seen sitting by his pint pot, which for many serves as breakfast. The enjoyment of beer is enhanced by Salzbrezeln and White Sausage. The best quality of light as well as dark beer is produced in Munich; the light is not so heavy and is more wholesome, the dark is stronger and has a more definite flavour. In good weather the people of Munich enjoy themselves in the large beer-gardens, which often belong to the breweries. The most famous of these is the Löwenbräu-Keller.
    Quite a unique experience is a visit to the celebrated Hofbräuhaus, in the old halls and salons of which thousands enjoy their