1936 On the Continent

part Roman Catholics—about half of the population. There are, however, a few Protestants and quite a number of free thinkers. Officially, there is no State religion in Belgium, but it is customary to include the Catholic Church in all State ceremonial.”
    Here is Mechlin (Malines). As was to be expected, the most wonderful monument of all is the Cathedral Saint Rombaut. Its tower is one of the most beautiful on the Continent and contains the most famous chimes in the world. Every Monday at 8 o’clock a carillon concert is given here. The dial of the great clock has a circumference of forty-one metres, which means that it is the largest clock in the world.
    Everything is worth seeing in Mechlin (Malines), but this can be done very quickly for all its treasures are huddled together (old houses, old palaces, old churches, and a wonderful bridge).
    The chief industries of Malines are: furniture-making, art tapestry, laces. Its beer is very famous, and so is the vegetable market. This is the home of the “Malines asparagus” and cauliflowers, sold not only in our Belgian market but in most foreign ones too.
    We leave Malines, peaceful, charming, secular.
    And Antwerp is before us.
    This is quite different. A merchant town this, and cosmopolitan. It is the second town in Belgium in order of importance, and the foremost harbour on the Continent—since it took the place held before the War by Hamburg.
    We’ll choose the Century or the Tourist Hotel to stay at, and we’ll have lunch anywhere: most restaurants are good and there are hundreds of them.
    “A little bit of history, Muriel?”
    “If you like. I know it makes you happy.”
Ancient Glory
    “But it’s the only way to understand a town thoroughly, my dear. You can see its material and physical aspect, but its past, the wonder of its presence and its permanence, can only be explained to you through a historical survey. Let me modestly fulfil this pleasant office for you, and honour me with your attention—for you are the most delightful of listeners.
    “How could I refuse you?”
    “Let me tell you, then, that Antwerp has to-day 600,000 inhabitants. The town was already mentioned in chronicles of the seventh century. But the apex of its power was reached in the sixteenth century. At that time Antwerp could be considered the foremost commercial city in the world, and all arts flourished there. Towards the end of the sixteenth century the decadence of the town began, as a result of religious and political troubles. From 200,000 its population dwindled to 55,000, and for four centuries the Treaty of Westphalia diverted the sea trade from its harbour. In 1863, however, the port takes on new life and it has grown and strengthened ever since.”
    “And what did the War do to all this?”
    “Antwerp is a fortified city, but not fortified enough to put up a strong fight in self-defence, that is why in 1914 it was wise enough to prevent useless bloodshed and destruction.”
    “And the trade slump?”
On Superlatives
    “We’ve suffered from it as much as our neighbours. And many are the cranes that are idle in the harbour. But here the depression is less sharply felt. What is more, Antwerp does not rely solely on its port for its livelihood. The Antwerp Exchange is very important, and among the town’s chief industries are diamond cutting, sugar refining, textile manufacturing and distilling. In the province of Antwerp radium is produced also. It is there that the largest supplies are produced at the lowest prices. Outside the Central station we have the Meir, which is a wide thoroughfare cutting across the town towards the port. You will visit the cathedral, for here, as nearly everywhere else, the most beautiful buildings are the churches. They are in most cases the oldest relics, having been patiently built and adorned by the most famous and most inspired masters of their time. The Antwerp Cathedral took no less than 200 years to finish. In this church are to be found the most magnificent of Rubens’ works (The Descent from the Cross, The Assumption of the Virgin), but, by a curious abuse, these works of art, which are the common wealth, are veiled, and in order to be able to see them you must pay a fee to the church. However, on certain dates they are uncovered and can be seen free of charge. The cathedral is the largest church in Belgium, and is in every sense a most remarkable building.”
    Here Muriel was seized with laughter.
    “What’s the