1936 On the Continent

metres. The London Law Courts cover 14,693, and Saint Peter’s in Rome covers 22,000. You will see that we are well served in the way of Law Courts. This imposing monument was built quite recently—exactly fifty-three years ago—and its architect lost his reason and died before it was completed. When you visit this building entrust yourself to a guide, for otherwise you will be lost in no time.
    After climbing all those stairs you will need to rest awhile, and you will find the Amphytrion a few yards farther. This is a very smart café where you may take refreshments or even dine. On the other side of the Boulevard is the Coupole, another smart establishment where one can have dinner too. While we are on the subject, we might make a note of the chief restaurants: Rotisserie Ardennaise, Taverne Royale, Trois Suisses, Palace, Central (down town), Elite, Caves de Maestricht (up town).
The Commercial Quarter
    The commercial quarter of Brussels is down town, it is the real heart of the city: this comprises the Bourse (Stock Exchange), the Place de Brouckère and the neighbouring boulevards. Up town are the Government buildings, the Ministries, the Banks, the Law Courts, and the great avenues leading to the Bois de la Cambre and the Forest.
    In the lower part of the town you will, on your shopping tours, pass through the Galeries St. Hubert (covered gallery entirely lined with shops), the central boulevards and the Rue Neuve. This is where the more important shops are to be found and is therefore one of the ladies’ favourite walks. The Innovation and the Bon Marché are two very important shops where tea can be taken on the roof, and from where one gets a fine view over the town.
    In these establishments, and in many others situated in every part of the town, lady visitors will be able to findanything they might need or desire. You will find smart shops in every important town in Belgium (Brussels, Antwerp, Ostend, Ghent, Liége and Spa). You need not hesitate to go into these shops and make enquiries, even if you do not finally buy anything. The Belgian shopkeeper is very obliging, very willing to enlighten a potential customer, and, as he expresses it himself, that’s what he is there for.
    “And where can I get a permanent wave?”
    “Forgive me, Muriel. I’d quite forgotten to mention that. I admit it is a very important matter. You’ll have to go to one of the numerous ladies’ hairdressers whom you will find all over the town. I’m not going to give you a list of them, you’d never get to the end of it. But this sort of problem will be solved for you at your hotel. If the establishment has not its own hairdressing and manicure service, the staff can certainly recommend a good establishment.”
    “And what are the places I may go to alone in the afternoon or evening?”
    “Practically everywhere. There are practically no places a woman may not go to alone. The pictures, the theatre, the café, tea-rooms, and even what we call the ‘dancings.’ (The Metropole tea-room is very smart, and at the Saint-Sauveur you will be sure to enjoy yourself too.)”
    “Which theatres do you recommend?”
Theatres
    “If you’re keen on opera, you’ll have to go to the Monnaie, which was before the War a theatre with a world-wide reputation. It has come down a little these days. The Parc—which is fitted with one of the new revolving stages—gives very good plays. If you want to see a musical comedy, the Alhambra is the place for you, and if you just need comedy and local humour—there’s the Vaudeville.”
    There are any number of cinemas. The programmes are indicated in the newspapers, and probably posted up in your hotel. If you are keen on the ultra-modern film productions there are two names to jot down—the Studioat the Palais des Beaux Arts and the Studio Arenberg, where pictures are given in the original version.
    “Do you have to dress in Brussels to go to the theatre, the restaurant or the pictures?”
    “Very rarely.”
Sports
    “What other places of amusement are there?”
    “Plenty. If you’re fond of skating, there are two skating rinks—the Pôle Nord and the Saint-Sauveur. If swimming is your favourite pastime, there is the Van Schelle open-air bathing pool. These establishments are open from morning till night, and you get anything you want there—even meals.”
    “And what about the races?”
    “Every day races are run on the race-courses around Brussels. The Boitsfort race-course is