1936 On the Continent

to me. And they were all told to me in good faith, And they were all told to me by people who were otherwise well informed as a general rule. Looking back on it, the most incredible thing of all now seems to me that I did actually take my first trip to Russia in 1930 at all. …
    The fourth matter was that, years ago, though it was believed that it was difficult or impossible for “ordinary people” to get to Russia, it was admitted that it was possible for extraordinary “important” people to go there. It was accounted to be something like a “millionaire’s trip.” About the year 1928 or 1929 a great millionaire newspaper proprietor and the most famous living English novelist (Lord Beaverbrook and Arnold Bennett) braced themselves for the experience. They went with a special aeroplane and a specially selected staff of secretaries. Being a personal friend of Arnold Bennett, and having moreover a warm interest in Russia, I applied to be taken on the trip in any capacity whatsoever—as one of the secretaries, or in any other sort of job. I was assured by Arnold Bennett (who was always kindness itself to me) that the idea was impossible, that the trip was going to cost hundreds of pounds, and that every detail of its staff and secretariat had been planned weeks beforehand. As I was neither one of the leading newspaper-proprietors nor the most famous novelist of my generation, I had to acquiesce in this. Russia of those days was, roughly speaking, only accessible to the most important (and rich) people on the face of the earth.
“Intourist”
    In 1929-30 came the change. Russia had, in the most important aspects of industrial developments, got on her feet again. The pace was still tremendous; but, in comparison to what had gone before, it was accounted as a breathing space. The Government of Russia had decided not only that it could afford to allow tourists into Russia but that it wanted tourists in modern Russia. It did notwant only the millionaires or the “people of importance.” It wanted not only the visiting expert but the ordinary intelligently-enquiring man-in-the-street or even the man-in-the-street who wanted to come on a holiday.
    Prices were fixed, not only cheaper proportionately than Aix or Le Touquet, but cheaper proportionately than Southend or Broadstairs. Arrangements were fixed by which the sportsman, the pleasure-seeker and the holiday-marker, no less than the enquirer and the observer, were invited (and welcome) to visit the country.
    “Intourist,” the official State Travel Agency, was established in Bush House, Kingsway, in London, and in most other European capitals; and it slowly began to penetrate the British intellect that modern Russia was as likely a place for the visitor with his eyes about him as Paris, Rome, the Riviera or any other of his normal haunts.
    It is still an adventure to go to modern Russia. There is not once in the five times that I have been there since 1930 when I have not felt “Here again one is going to see something new. It may be good, it may be bad. It will probably be controversial. It will certainly be enlivening, astonishing, and grandiose.”
    I have been alone to Russia. I have also been with parties of tourists amounting in all to some hundreds. I do not think that there is one of these who on his (or her) return would not agree that, however much he (or she) had liked or disliked it, modern Russia was the most interesting country in the world for the visitor.
Modern Arrangements
    The establishment of “Intourist,” the State Agency for Russian travel, with Government backing, has made an immense difference.
    In the first place it implics that the State, having invited visitors, takes pains to see to their comfort convenience and safety. The
visa
, which is regarded as a complete nuisance by some people, is in reality a two-edged weapon: if a State grants a
visa
to a visitor it not only means that the State collects a few shillings from him, but that it recognises that he comes with the State’s own permission,and that the State assumes a certain amount of responsibility for his welfare.
    It does not mean, however, that he is to be ceaselessly supervised by “guides,” interpreters, and general watch-dogs.
Excellent Guides
    I can give my own experience of this to the intending visitor. Going for my first visit, not knowing the country, not knowing the language, and having no connections among residents there, I found that my very best plan