1936 On the Continent

London.
    Come back through Stilton (and lunch there because of the cheese), and skim the hunting shires. Stilton cheese was made there during the coaching days. It is made in a great many districts of England now (but then the history of English cheeses would fill a volume by itself).
    If you missed Ely, stop there on your way back; and you should also visit Bury St. Edmunds. You must go on foot through the gateway to circle the old building, and if you’re in luck you will see the swans on the moat ring the gate-house dinner bell.
Newmarket and the Races
    Between B URY S T. E DMUNDS and C AMBRIDGE leave the main road and watch out for gallops, for N EWMARKET is the very heart of our racing district, and on those gallops the young hopefuls are tried out. It’s a lovely sight to see the long strings of horses treading light as if they trod on silk, and you may spot a winner!
Cambridge Old Colleges
    Cambridge has been described elsewhere in this guide and it may be home to you to visit some special college.
    For one last look across your own eastern country, get to the top of the Gog Magog Hills. Such small hills in themselves, but mighty as giants over that flat land. On a clear day you will have a very wonderful view for your farewell.
    S AFFRON W ALDEN (name relic when Saffron was staple crop in the district) is on the main road, but many of the villages near are worth exploring.
    Come back through D UNMOW , for there they give a flitch of bacon to the couple who live most happily together for a whole year. Then, with that pleasant thought, head back for London.
Where Livingstone Studied
    Passing Chipping Ongar the visitor from Africa must pause, for there Dr. Livingstone studied; an historianshould turn one mile aside to Greenstead to see a genuine Anglo-Saxon church, with untouched walls of trunks of trees. Antiquarians date it very early in the eleventh century, probably 1013. And so to London, via Gloucester Gate and Regent’s Park.
    Hotels and Road Houses in towns, or near the routes, mentioned.
    M ANNINGTREE
    White Hart
    H ARLOW
    Riverside Cafe
    H AVERING-ATTE -B OWER
    Havering Court
    I NGATESTONE
    The Chase
    B RAINTREE
    Sun Lido
    C HELMSFORD
    Saracen’s Head
    White Hart
    C OLCHESTER
    Cups
    Red Lion.
    I PSWICH
    Crown and Anchor
    West Gate Street
    Great White Horse, Tavern St.
    A LDEBURGH
    Brudenell, The Parade
    Wentworth
    White Lion
    S OUTHWOLD
    The Grand
    The Swan
    The Crown
    L OWESTOFT
    The Royal
    Victoria
    The Imperial
    Y ARMOUTH
    Queen’s, The Marine Parade
    The Brunswick
    The Royal
    N ORWICH
    Maid’s Head, Wensum Street
    The Bell, Orford Place
    B LAKENEY
    Blakeney Hotel, Quayside
    Burnham Overy, Mooring’s Hotel
    C ROMER (many hotels)
    The Grand (facing sea)
    Royal Links (near golf links)
    New Haven Court
    C LEY
    There are good small hotels at Cley.
    C ROYLAND
    There is a
good
hotel at Croyland.
    E LY
    Lamb and the Bell
    B OSTON
    Peacock and Royal
    White Hart
    White Horse
    L INCS
    Woodhall Spa
    Petwood Hotel
    B URY S U. E DMUNDS
    Angel, and The Suffolk, in the butter market.
    C AMBRIDGE
    University Arms
    The Bull
    The Blue Boar, in Trinity Street
    The Lion in Petticurry
    N EWMARKET
    Rutland Arms
    S AFFRON W ALDEN
    Rose and Crown, Market Square
    D UNMOW
    Saracen’s Head, High Stre$$151
ROUTE 2—THE GREAT NORTH ROAD
    T HE Great North Road, track of the Romans sweeping north, passes Hendon. The direct way sweeps out through St. Albans.
    If time is precious head straight onwards through N ORTHAMPTON and Leicester, and Charnwood Forest.
    But if you want to see as much as you can, use the reverse of the eastern route, winding your way north via Cambridge and Ely, and only turning inland in time for the hunting shires, and lunch on pork pie at M ELTON M OWBRAY . Pork pie and Stilton cheese belong to that part of the Midlands.
A Trappist Monastery in Leicestershire
    Beyond Leicester turn into Charnwood Forest for the beauty of the country; on a clear day from “the rocks” you can see for miles, and in the heart of the Forest is buried the only Trappist Monastery in England.
    You may go over the monastery: visitors are welcome—if you are poor they will give you soup, if you are rich you may buy exquisite honey which, to the imaginative, has a faint aroma of incense. The silent, white-hooded Brothers work in the fields or lead laden carts along the road, for their estate is large and their lives hard working.
    Afterwards you may speed till you reach the Peak district, in the heart of which is B UXTON