Training for Climbing, 2nd: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Performance (How To Climb Series)

Pause at the top position for an instant, and then lower to the starting position at a slightly slower rate. Upon reaching the bottom position, immediately explode upward with the next pull-up. Strive to rapidly change directions slightly before your arms reach full extension—this rapid turnover is essential to optimal training. Never drop forcefully onto straight arms and cease using this exercise if you experience any elbow or shoulder pain. Continue with these explosive pull-ups for a total of five to ten repetitions. Do not do more than ten reps, regardless of the feeling that you could continue on with the exercise. Rest for three minutes before doing a second and third set.
BIG-MOVE BOULDER PROBLEMS
     
    If you are an avid boulderer, then you are likely already using this training strategy. The goal is to climb several powerful six- to ten-move boulder problems that demand full effort in throwing and sticking several big moves. The ideal route will feature mostly positive, medium-size holds that will not test your grip strength—the goal here is long, powerful movements that fully call into play the pulling and lock-off muscles. Moreover, the climbing movements do not need to be all-out lunges, but instead controlled, powerful reaches between reasonably good holds. When you find the right route (or set it), try to send it five times with about a three-minute rest between sends.
INVERTED LADDER AND ROPE CLIMBING
     
    Rope or ladder climbing is one of the very best ways to develop awesome upper-body power. Legendary boulderer John Gill used rope climbing as a staple training exercise, and years later John Bachar popularized inverted ladder training among climbers. The Bachar Ladder, as it became known, was a popular training exercise of high-end climbers throughout the 1980s. Since the advent of indoor climbing walls, however, rope and ladder climbing have fallen largely out of use. Still, serious climbers would be wise to incorporate some rope or ladder climbing into their training program. Both apparati provide for feet-off, campuslike movements, thus requiring a high level of base strength to execute. The equipment needs are either a 1.5-inch manila gym rope or a homemade inverted rope ladder.
    After a lengthy warm-up of pull-ups and mild upper-body stretching, begin from either a standing or sit-down (harder) position. Grip either the rope or ladder rung with both arms at near-full extension. With an explosive two-arm pull, begin climbing up the rope or ladder in a fast, smooth, yet dynamic motion. The goal is to maintain steady upward motion for the duration of the ascent, although it will likely take some time to develop this ability. Upon reaching the top, slowly lower yourself down arm-over-arm in a smooth, controlled motion; do not drop down in a fast, jerky manner that will shock-load the elbows and shoulders. Dismount the rope or ladder—do not climb additional distance without a rest.

     
    The author on his Bachar ladder, circa 1990. HÖRST COLLECTION
     

    Rest for three to five minutes before you make your next climb. Perform three to five total laps on the rope or ladder, always taking an adequate rest so that you can make a quality effort. Highly conditioned individuals should strive to increase the speed of ascent instead of doing additional sets. As with all high-intensity exercises, it’s best to cycle on and off this exercise every few weeks. Only use Bachar Ladders constructed with static rope. Stop rope or ladder training if you feel any pain in your elbows or shoulders.
CAMPUS TRAINING
     
    As described in the contact strength section earlier in this chapter, campus training is a highly effective reactive training method for developing raw power. Use of the campus training exercises described on pages 149-53 will build power in your large pull muscles as well as your fingers. So in using these exercises, you are getting a training two-for-one—that is, training contact strength and pulling power! Still, campus training is appropriate only for fit, healthy intermediate to advanced climbers. Proceed with caution!
FEET-OFF BOULDERING
     
    Often called campusing, this is another popular indoor training exercise among advanced boulderers. The goal is simply to ascend a section of overhanging wall by climbing hand-over-hand with no use of the feet. Such no-feet climbing is extremely difficult and certainly an elite-only training method. As in the big-move bouldering described above, select