Training for Climbing, 2nd: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Performance (How To Climb Series)

you’ll need to consider all the other possible arm positions—side pull, Gaston, and undercling—and figure out how to match one of these with an opposing foot placement. Detailed below are a few of the most common left-right combinations called into use on difficult climbs. You should practice each of these on the bouldering wall in order to develop its unique motor skills. Vary your hand and foot placements as much as possible to acquire a broad range of use for each hand-foot combination.
SIDE-PULL ARM AND OUTSIDE EDGE OF OPPOSITE FOOT
     
    Side-pulling arms are a staple move on almost every moderate to advanced climb, but it’s your foothold selection that often determines the effectiveness of this move. In most cases it’s best to use the outside edge of the opposing foot, not the inside edge. Doing this may feel awkward at first, but you’ll find a natural sense of stability once you learn to appropriately set your hips over the outside-edging foot. The key is to concentrate on rotating your hips so that the hip opposite the pulling hand is turned into the wall—that is, your face and chest will rotate toward the side pulling hand. This very stable position will allow you to step up your free (nonopposing) leg and quite possibly your free (nonopposing) hand as well. Occasionally a move will dictate that a side-pulling hand must be combined with use of the inside edge of the opposing foot. While this, too, is a fairly stable body position, it provides less reach upward with the free hand. Therefore, anytime you are struggling to reach a handhold, try using the outside edge of your shoe and a hip turn to maximize reach.

     
    Pairing a side-pulling hand with the outside edge of the opposite foot (and a hip turn) provides great stability and reach. LISA ANN HÖRST
     

GASTON AND INSIDE EDGE OF OPPOSITE FOOT
     
    The Gaston (aka reverse side pull) is the most unnatural and weak arm position, yet it’s a fairly common move needed to unlock many crux sequences. Use of the Gaston is best opposed by the inside edge of the opposite foot. Combining a Gaston with an outside-edging foot is strenuous but doable if absolutely needed. Practice this move in a variety of ways to gain comfort and strength in its use. As with all these advanced moves, the bouldering area is the ideal proving ground to experiment with and learn the skills.
UNDERCLING AND INSIDE OR OUTSIDE EDGE OF OPPOSITE FOOT
     
    Frequently overlooked by inexperienced climbers, undercling hand positions are often essential for unlocking difficult sequences on steep terrain. What’s more, an underclinging hand helps maximize your reach with the free hand, and it positions your arm and body in a naturally strong position. Typically you will undercling a hold somewhere near your torso while you press with an opposing foot. This foot can edge with either the inside, outside, or toe portion of the shoe, although use of the outside edge is best for maximizing your reach. Remember that in edging with the outside of your foot, it’s best to turn the hip opposite the pulling hand to the wall. In extreme situations you may even need to use a foot smear to oppose the underclinging hand. This is a very powerful but important move that you should train on a bouldering or system wall.

     
    The undercling move can save the day on a reachy move lacking a positive down-pull hold. Use a hip turn and the outside edge of your opposite foot to maximize reach, stability, and power.
    ERIC McCALLISTER
     

SIDE-PULLING LEFT AND RIGHT HANDS
     
    Use of opposing handholds is a key move for unlocking a sequence that lacks any usable down-pull or undercling handholds. Most common are two opposing side pulls that you’ll draw inward to create tension through your arms, shoulders, and upper body. While you will be unable to create much upward movement, this opposition will allow you to upgrade one or both feet. Ideally, you’ll want to upgrade the foot that opposes the better of the two side pulls, so that it sets up a stable left-right combination. This will enable you to release the other side-pulling hand so as to upgrade it to the next hold. Another possibility is opposing Gaston holds. Though strenuous, you may occasionally need to grab two Gastons at or just above head height and pull outward in order to support your weight while upgrading a foot position. This is a most advanced move that requires a high level of base strength.

Use Foot Flagging to Enhance