Training for Climbing, 2nd: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Performance (How To Climb Series)

neutral, straight-on body position places the center of gravity way out from the wall. This makes for strenuous, inefficient movement.
     

     
    2. The twist lock with its hallmark hip turn draws the center of gravity in closer to the wall, thus placing more body weight onto the feet, increasing reach and enhancing grip on handholds (thanks to the changing force vector of the arm pull).
     

HEEL HOOK
     
    Heel hooks are the major go-to move when you’re turning the lip of a roof, topping out on a boulder problem, or copping a quick shakeout while on steep terrain. In these cases you’ll likely have your hands on holds at or above face level and intend to place one of your heels on a hold off to the side near shoulder level. Which heel you choose to hook with depends on two factors: the availability of a decent-size hold on which to place your heel, and the location of the next handhold that you hope to acquire. This next reach up is best made with the hand on the same side as the heel hook. So if it looks like the next attainable hold is set up for the right hand, it would be best to use a right heel hook. Once set, pull with the heel hook as if it were a third arm and, of course, pull with both arms as well. Often it helps to think about pulling your heel toward your rear end; this will maximize use of the leg muscles and help shift your center of gravity toward the heel hook. Meanwhile, the other foot should inside-edge or smear on the wall to help contribute to the upward motion. As you gain elevation, make a quick reach to the next handhold and then switch your heel hook into a standard step-down foot placement.

     
    Heel hooks can make a huge difference in pulling a tough roof or copping a shakeout on steep rock.
     

TOE HOOK
     
    The toe hook is a foot move used mostly in pulling overhangs or in navigating roofs. This technique involves simply hooking as much of the top-laces side of your shoe as possible on a large protruding hold. Sometimes you will toe hook onto a hold with a bent leg, and then straighten that leg as your hands move out the roof. Ideally you’ll have one foot toe hooking while the other foot pushes off a nearby hold. This opposing push-pull combination enhances the foot purchase on the holds and lowers the chance that your feet will come swinging off the roof (a common problem). Strive to keep your arms and legs in the straight position as much as possible so that your body weight is being supported more by bone than by muscles. Done properly, you can navigate a surprisingly large roof, with the limiting factor being forearm endurance. Experiment with this foot technique in the bouldering area and you’ll gradually gain skill and confidence in climbing with your back to the ground!
KNEE LOCK
     
    Knee locks are a boon on overhanging walls and roofs with large protruding holds—that is, if you know the technique and can find a position to exploit this “thank-God” move. On a severely overhanging climb with no obvious rest positions, finding a knee lock may be your only hope for a rest. Look for a place where you can step your toe onto a hold and then lock in your knee against a larger opposing hold. Such a knee lock provides surprising purchase; it will allow you to drop one hand at a time to shake out and chalk up. Occasionally you will come upon a knee lock that’s so solid, you’ll be able to cop a rare no-hands inverted rest! Of course, miss the knee lock and you have no choice but to sprint up the climb in the hope of reaching the anchors before the pump clock runs out.

Use Dynamic Moves When They Offer Greater Economy
     
    Throughout this chapter I’ve stressed the importance of climbing with maximum economy—the goal being to climb a move, a sequence, and an entire route in a way that requires minimal energy. In most cases the hallmark of economical climbing is smooth, relaxed movement that utilizes the feet and legs over the muscles of the upper body. Such controlled, fluid movement is often referred to as static climbing. The opposite of static style is dynamic or explosive movement, and there are certain moves and sequences that demand dynamic movement to achieve maximum economy. In particular, vertical routes with tiny handholds and overhanging routes with long reaches often require dynamic movements.
    The key is to know which moves are best attempted dynamically versus statically, and this is a recognition skill that takes years to fully develop. When working a