Training for Climbing, 2nd: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Performance (How To Climb Series)

the wall, helping maximize the range of the stretch. Lie on the floor with your buttocks about 6 inches from a wall and your legs extending straight up it with about a ninety-degree bend at your hips. Slowly separate your legs by sliding your heels out to the sides. Concentrate on relaxing throughout your body and allow gravity to extend the split until you feel mild tension in your legs and groin. Hold this position for ten to twenty seconds. Try to split your legs farther apart; if needed, grab your thighs to apply some downward pressure to extend the stretch. Hold this position for thirty to sixty seconds.
GROIN STRETCH
     
    This is an excellent stretch for improving hip turnout. Flexibility gains from this stretch will allow you to move your center of gravity in closer to the wall—more over your feet—on near-vertical climbs. Sit upright with your legs flexed and knees out to the sides so that you can bring the soles of your feet together. Grasp your ankles and rest your elbows on the inside of the thighs. Press down with your elbows to apply light pressure on the thigh until you feel mild tension in your groin and inner thigh. Hold this stretch for ten seconds, and then release it for a few seconds. Apply pressure for a secondary stretch of twenty to thirty seconds. Next, lie down flat on your back while keeping your feet together. Relax and allow gravity to pull your knees toward the floor for another thirty seconds to one minute.

     
    1. Stretch while sitting.
     

     
    2. Stretch on your back.
     

QUADRICEPS AND HIP FLEXORS
     
    This is a common wall stretch, often used by runners, that provides a nice stretch of the quadriceps and psoas (hip flexor) muscle. Stand near a wall or other object that you can hold on to with one hand for balance. Now flex the leg on the supporting hand’s side and bring the heel up to near your buttocks. Reach behind your back with the free hand and grasp the foot of your bent leg. Slowly pull upward on the foot to induce a stretch in the quadriceps and hip flexors. Hold this for ten seconds, then release the stretch slightly for a few seconds. Pull upward again for another twenty to thirty seconds of stretching. Repeat this stretch with the other leg; remember to switch the supporting hand so that you are holding the bent leg with the opposite hand.
CALF STRETCH
     
    The gastrocnemius and soleus muscles of the calf are the unsung heroes of climbing performance. Stretch mthese muscles before and after every day of climbing! Stand with one foot about 3 to 4 feet ahead of the other. Bend the front leg and shift your hips forward while keeping your rear leg straight and the heel in contact with the floor. Rest your hands on your forward knee or lean against a wall or other solid object to maintain balance as you shift your hips far enough forward to produce a stretch in the calf muscles. Hold this stretch for twenty seconds, and then shift your hips back to the starting position to release the stretch for a few seconds. Move your hips forward to produce a secondary stretch for thirty to sixty seconds. Maintain heel contact with the floor throughout. Repeat with the other leg.
UPPER- AND LOWER-ABDOMINAL STRETCH
     
    Lie flat on the floor with your arms bent and palms flat next to your shoulders. Slowly press your shoulders away from the floor until you feel mild tension in your abdominals. Keep your legs and pelvis in contact with the floor for the duration of this stretch—it helps to contract your buttocks in order to maintain the position and reduce stress on your lower back. Hold the stretch for ten seconds, then return to the starting position for a few seconds. Press up for a secondary stretch of twenty to thirty seconds. Relax and allow the curve of your spine to extend up through your upper back and neck. Look forward, but not up toward the ceiling. Do not be overly aggressive with this stretch—proceed with caution, especially if you have a history of back problems. Stop immediately if you experience any pain in the lower back.

     
    Quadriceps and hip flexors.
     

     
    Calf stretch.
     

OBLIQUES AND BACK STRETCH
     
    This final stretch will help prepare your body for the torso-twisting, hip-turning, drop-kneeing movements that are so common on steep sport climbs and boulder problems. Sit erect on the floor with one leg straight and the other bent and crossing over the opposite knee. Slowly turn your body toward the side of the bent leg until you feel mild tension