Training for Climbing, 2nd: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Performance (How To Climb Series)

pace that allows about two repetitions per second. Now perform a minute or two of massage to the palmar side of your fingers and hand—this will encourage blood flow and help warm the tendons and tendon pulleys.
FINGER FLEXOR STRETCH AND MASSAGE
     
    Finger Flexor Stretch

     
    1. Palm down.
     

     
    2. Palm out.
     

    This rudimentary stretch targets the forearm muscles that enable finger flexion and your grip on the rock. Be sure to perform this stretch in the two-handed positions shown above. In a standing position, bring your arms together in front of your waist. Straighten the arm to be stretched and lay the fingertips into the palm of your other hand. Position the hand of your stretch arm so that the palm is facing down with the thumb pointing inward. Pull back on the fingers of your straight arm until a mild stretch begins in the forearm muscles. Hold this stretch for about twenty seconds. Release the stretch and turn the hand 180 degrees so that your stretch arm is now positioned with the palm facing outward and the thumb pointing out to the side. Using your other hand, pull your fingers back until a stretch begins in the forearm muscles. Hold for ten seconds. Repeat this stretch, in both positions, with your other arm. Finish up with a minute of self-massage to the forearm flexor muscles using deep cross-fiber friction (see page 215).
FINGER EXTENSORS STRETCH
     
    This important stretch is unfortunately overlooked by many climbers. It stretches and warms up the numerous extensor muscles and the often tight brachioradialis muscle of the back of the forearm; when used daily, it will help your prevent tendinosis of the outer elbow (often called lateral epicondylitis). In a standing position, bring your arms together in front of your waist. Straighten the arm to be stretched and then make a tight fist; place the fist in the palm of your other hand. With your fist hand in the thumb-up position, gently pull the fist inward to create a mild stretch along the back of the forearm. Hold this stretch for twenty seconds. Now release the stretch and rotate the fist until it’s in the awkward thumb-down position. Again, use your free hand to flex the fist and hold for twenty seconds—hold a solid fist and keep your arm straight to best work this strange yet important stretch. Repeat with your other hand.
     
    Finger Extensors Stretch

     
    1. Thumb up.
     

     
    2. Thumb down.
     

FINGER ISOLATION STRETCH
     
    This isolation stretch, along with massage of the fingers and hands, is very effective for warming up your precious digits. Work through this sequence one finger at a time. Either sitting or standing, bend one arm at the elbow to position your hand palm-up at chest level. Curl your fingers about three-quarters of the way, but do not close your hand or make a fist. Extend your hand fully into a hand-back position. Place the index finger of the other hand across the last digit of finger to be stretched and position the thumb under the finger near the hand knuckle. Gradually apply pressure with the index finger to further close the bent finger and to push it back in the direction opposite that to which it flexes. Stop when you feel mild tension in the joints. Hold this stretch for ten seconds. Release the finger for a few seconds and repeat the stretch for another ten seconds. Repeat this process with all eight fingers. Stop immediately if you experience any pain.

     
    Finger isolation stretch.
     

SHOULDER, CHEST, AND BICEPS STRETCH
     
    Sit on the floor with your feet flat and knees bent about halfway. Position your arms just behind your hips with the elbows straight, palms flat, and fingers pointing back. Slowly walk your hands away from your hips until you feel mild tension in your biceps. Hold this position for twenty seconds. Walk your fingers back a few inches farther to increase the tension a bit more. You may also feel some mild stretching in your shoulders and chest. Hold this position for twenty to thirty seconds before releasing the stretch.
RHOMBOIDS AND TRAPEZIUS STRETCH
     
    This is a great stretch for the shoulder and upper-back muscles that are so heavily used in climbing vertical and overhanging walls. From a standing position, bring one arm across your chest until the hand rests on the opposite shoulder. Maintain the bent elbow at chest level so that your arm is parallel to the floor. With the other hand, grasp behind the bent elbow from below. Pull on the bent elbow until you feel tension in