Training for Climbing, 2nd: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Performance (How To Climb Series)

upward. The range of motion is small—the goal is to lift your upper back off the floor, but not to ascend all the way as you would in doing old-school sit-ups. Continue up and down at a brisk pace that takes just over one second per repetition—but don’t go so fast that you are bouncing off the floor. Perform as many crunches as possible. Your long-term goal should be fifty to seventy-five repetitions. As your conditioning improves, you can perform a second set after a three-minute rest.
HANGING KNEE LIFT
     
    This strenuous exercise targets the lower-abdominal muscles in a very climbing-specific way—much like lifting your legs on an overhanging route. Do these hanging from a pull-up bar, the bucket holds of a fingerboard, or a set of Pump Rocks with your palms facing away. Briskly lift your knees up to your chest level, allowing your legs to bend naturally with the motion. Pause for a moment, then lower your legs slowly until they return to a slightly bent position. Immediately begin the next upward repetition, and continue these knee-lift movements at a steady pace until you can no longer perform the full range of motion. Your long-range goal is twenty-five to thirty repetitions. Rest for three minutes before performing a second set or moving on to the next abdominal exercise.
SIDE HIP RAISE
     
    This surprisingly difficult exercise works the oblique muscles along the side of your torso. Lie on your side on the floor and press up with the floor-side arm straight and supporting your weight so that your body forms a triangle with the floor. Rest the free arm along the other side of your body. Keeping the supporting arm straight, lower your hip until it touches the floor and then immediately raise it back up to the starting position. Repeat this lowering and raising of the hip in a slow, controlled manner for ten to twenty (hard) repetitions. Rest for one minute and then switch sides to perform another set.
AQUAMAN
     
    Hanging Knee Lift

     
    1. Lift knees.
     

     
    2. Pause and repeat.
     

    The Aquaman is a great core exercise that particularly homes in on strengthening the commonly weak muscles of the lower back. Lie facedown on the floor with your arms extended overhead, your legs straight with pointed toes, and your head in a neutral position. Begin by simultaneously raising one arm and the opposite leg as high as comfortably possible. Hold the top position for one second, then return to the starting position. Repeat by raising the opposite arm and leg off the floor simultaneously. Again, hold for a second in the top position before returning to the floor. Continue this alternating exercise motion for a total of twenty repetitions or until you can no longer perform a slow, controlled movement. Rest for three minutes before performing another set.
ONE-ARM, ONE-LEG BRIDGE
     
    This strenuous exercise calls into play almost every muscle from your hands to your feet, and as a result it’s remarkably hard and tiring! Assume a push-up position with your torso straight and in line with your feet. Spread your feet shoulder width apart, with your toes in contact with the floor. Keeping your arms, back, and legs straight, lift one foot and the opposite hand off the floor for approximately five seconds. Contract the muscles of your arms, shoulders, core, and legs as needed to maintain balance. Switch foot and arm positions so that your other arm and leg are now supporting your weight. Hold this position for about five seconds. Continue alternating the supporting arm and leg every five seconds. To make the exercise harder, occasionally use the arm and leg on the same side. End the exercise after one minute, or earlier if you cannot maintain balance on the single arm and leg. Rest for three minutes and perform a second set.
     
    Side Hip Raise

     
    1. Keep arm straight.
     

     
    2. Lower hip to floor, then return to start position.
     

    Aquaman

     
    1. Raise one arm and leg.
     

     
    2. Then the other.
     

    One-Arm, One-Leg Bridge

     
    1. Lift one hand and foot.
     

     
    2. Then the other.
     

     
    Front lever.
     

FRONT LEVER
     
    Introduced to climbing by the legendary boulderer John Gill, the Front Lever is the gold standard of core-muscle strength. It is a very difficult gymnastics move, so expect this exercise to feel hard—or even impossible! Fortunately, you can make it a bit easier by simply bending one leg or having a spotter hold your feet. Begin by hanging straight-arm from a bar or a set of