Training for Climbing, 2nd: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Performance (How To Climb Series)

published in December 2002, has spread to more than fifty countries and been translated into four languages. The text introduced countless climbers to the concepts of comprehensive, climbing-specific training, and it revealed new cutting-edge strength-training strategies, such as Hypergravity Isolation Training and complex training, adapted to climbing by this author in the mid- and late 1990s. Academic researchers, alert now to the unique physiological aspects of climbing, have carried out and published the results of dozens of scientific studies in the few years since this book first appeared. The body of knowledge on the science of climbing performance has grown by leaps and bounds since the introduction of Gill’s gymnasts’ chalk and Ament’s slack chain; much more remains to be investigated and discovered. I trust that this new and expanded edition of Training for Climbing will provide a solid foundation from which the next generation of climbers and sports scientists can extend their grasp.
    While the climbers of my generation trained largely in accordance with myth, anecdote, and trial and error, those entering the sport today have a significant amount of quality information on the subject, if they choose to use it. As I proclaimed at the beginning of How to Climb 5.12, “If you are reading this book, chances are you have what it takes to climb 5.12.” As I complete this book, I maintain this same sentiment—in fact, there’s a good chance you have what it takes to climb 5.13! And if you’re genetically blessed, maybe even 5.15 . . .

Genetics and Climbing Performance
     
    Excuses are like parents—everybody has them. Ironically, your parents, or more precisely the genetic material you inherited from them, might be the best excuse why you or I may never climb 5.15. Still, your genetic makeup, which substantially determines your height, flexibility, and natural strength, among other things, is a poor excuse for not being able to climb 5.10 or even 5.12. Yes, some specific 5.12 climb might require a long reach or high step that you will never be capable of making, but numerous research studies confirm my belief that the mass of climbers have the potential to succeed at the lofty grade of 5.12, regardless of genetics.

The Role of Genetics in Sports Performance
     
    All other things being equal, genes seem to determine the differences in performance among individuals. In a sport as complex as climbing, however, you could argue that “all other things are never equal”—making the role of genetics in climbing performance hard to pin down. But let’s try!
    The role of genetics in what we become has been a favorite subject of scientists over the years—it’s the old “nature-versus-nurture” debate. Certainly genetics would seem to play an underlying role in our natural mental climate and personality. However, it’s in the physical realm of strength and motor skill that genetics appear to play the largest role (or at least this is where genetics seem most observable and measurable for scientists). Interestingly, a review of the research on the role of genetics on performance reveals an extremely complex subject with contradictory theories and findings among academics. One study (Ericsson 1993) suggested that hours of deliberate practice are the most important factor in determining performance, while another (Fox 1996) found that genes are responsible for half the variations in performance among individuals.
    In the real, nonacademic world, it seems that neither of these studies is unequivocally correct. It appears that genetics play the greatest role in sports where the raw physical demands far outweigh the mental or technical requirements. For example, excelling at the 100-meter dash requires extreme explosive power but only basic mental and technical skill. Conversely, golf requires mastery of a wide range of technical skills and a well-cultivated mental calm, but the physical demands are much less noteworthy. Therefore, while genetics clearly play a major role in determining who makes it to the Olympics in the 100-meter dash, they should have much less influence in determining who plays in this year’s PGA Championship.
    Summing up: Hours of deliberate practice are a requisite for performing at a high level in complex (technical and mental) sports, whereas ideal genetics are a prerequisite for achieving greatness in the most physical pursuits, such as running and weight lifting. Rock climbing