1936 On the Continent

earlier in the afternoon or evening in consequence. You can well take such a lunch on country excursions. Even smart hotels are quite used to it and not the least offended by an order merely for coffee whilst you sit and eat your own “smørrebrød” at their tables.
    Trams and the eternal bicycle are the favourite means of transport in town. Smoking only allowed in tram-trailers or outside. Fares 20 øre; transfer tickets (ask for “omstigning”) up to 3 lines 25 øre; an extra charge beyond the municipal area. You can travel several miles for a few pence.
    Telephones everywhere, about one for every five persons in Copenhagen. Copenhagen system is half automatic. Turn the first two letters on the dial for the district—thus PA for Palae), then ask the number required.
    Telephone and Address Directory. Remember Danish has two extra letters at the end of the alphabet, æ and ø.
    Tips given on much the same occasions as in England. 10 per cent. or for amounts under 1 kr. 15 per cent.
IV—FOOD AND DRINK
    Most Danes of all classes know good food, and like to eat it cheerfully. Consequently, the standard even of the cheaper restaurants is good, whilst at the best all kinds of delicacies are obtainable.
Danish Specialities
    Lobsters, oysters, plaice, shrimps, especially at Krog’s or Fiskehuset in Gammel Strand. Chef Jutta at Krog’s has a menu in English with his special delicacies emphasised in red.
    Hors d’œuvres and cold cuts, the groaning “Kolde Bord” (cold table).

    “Smørrebrød,” or hors d’œuvres, and cold cuts served on various excellent sorts of breads with butter, ordered at restaurants at almost any hour of day or night from special menus. “Smørrebrødseddel,” the dish of theDanish luncheon and the luncheon packet that the Danish wife presents to her husband as she kisses him good-bye each morning. A Dane loves his “smørrebrød,” even sends home for it by aeroplane when he wants to entertain in worthy Danish fashion, as did the Anglo-Danish Society at Grosvenor House last year. Be sure when choosing “smørrebrød” to get each on its most suitable bread—rye (rugbrød) or white (franskbrød), and so on, for which you will find separate columns on the “Smørrebrødseddel.”
    Sweets: Apple cake (aeblekage). “Rødgrød,” a special fruit jelly. (Recipes given under Section XI.)
Drinks
    Coffee the national beverage, strong, with cream, excellent.
    Beers: Danish Carlsberg or Tuborg Pilsener.
    Liqueurs: Danish Heering’s Cherry Brandy and C.L.O.C.
    Aquavit: Danish Aalborg, popular with “smørrebrød.”
    Treating is bounded by no such custom as the English of not taking a second drink without offering one yourself. A Dane will often offer drink after drink without expecting one in return. The person who gives the drink says “Skaal.”
V—RESTAURANTS AND PLACES OF AMUSEMENT
    In Copenhagen, restaurants, cafés, serving drinks as well as food, bars, dance halls abound, generally open until 2 a.m., though there is no admittance after midnight. In the provinces the best restaurants are often at hotels, though there is the beautiful “Kilden” at Aalborg, and some other well-known places. In summer all restaurants have tables on the pavement or in gardens.
    For Copenhagen Restaurant and Night Life go up Vesterbrogade to: Nimb (dinner 6 to 10 kr.) if you are of the fastidious people. Come on here after the opera to dance. You can have a delightful evening and see some interesting figures of the Copenhagen diplomatic world.
    Wivex (dinner 4 to 8 kr.). Scandinavia’s largest restaurant, overlooking Tivoli and the gay Vesterbropavement, the restaurant for the jolly, prosperous Copenhagener, who does not always wait to be introduced before he asks you to dance.
    Tivoli amusement gardens with more restaurants of all kinds in one place than you have seen in a lifetime. Everyone comes to Tivoli, prince and workman, ladies alone or accompanied, to “the most democratic garden in the world.” Concerts, ballet, theatre, sideshows, dancing, amusements. Don’t miss Tivoli for something Danish.
    National Scala, a large, modern amusement palace. Entry free. Restaurant, with dinner as cheap as 1.65 kr. if you wish. Café, cocktail bar, confectioner’s shop, dancing, variety concerts.
    Dance halls: Valencia, Arena. No introduction necessary here before asking a lady to dance.
    Night clubs: Adlon, Nørregade 41. Guldaldersalen, Frederiksberg (see below).
    For inexpensive restaurants