1936 On the Continent

moments hardly sweeter or more Danish than those spent on the terrace of the hotel on Munkebjerg Hill looking down on wood and fjord. Within a short run of Fredericia (on Harwich-Copenhagen route). Hotels Munkebjerg, Royal, etc., 3 to 6 kr. Missionshotel from 2 kr.
Provincial Towns
    Of the best known hotels try the Grand (4 to 15 kr.) at Odense, Hans Andersen’s town. At the Grand all prosperous Funen meets. At Aarhus, the well-known Hotel Royal, the largest in Jutland; Hotel Randers (The Leaping Salmon) at Randers, near the Djursland of old manors. Here the most particular person can feel at home (3.50 to 12 kr.).
    Most Danish towns have comfortable hotels, though space does not permit details of them here. Do not forget, however, the old towns Viborg and Ribe, Møn of the white cliffs, and “Denmark’s island” Bornholm (see section VII).
    For Fishing, Health Resorts see under Sport and Baths.
III—DAILY LIFE
In the Country
    Some half of the population of Denmark are country dwellers. Of this very important side of Danish life the tourist seldom gets direct experience, which is a pity, for in the serene and lovely Danish countryside, with its successful husbandry and comfortable homes, well-informed and hospitable people, there is something not to be found in every tourist land. (See under Social Opportunities.)
In Town
    Of town dwellers most live in Copenhagen and in flats, though there are some nice villas in the suburbs. Copenhagen (770,000 inhabitants, or some 21 per cent. of Denmark’s 3½ millions) is Denmark’s one great city. Aarhus (81,000) and Odense (67,000) come next, with a big difference. Even Copenhagen is not so great as to make life in it complicated. Indeed, the characteristic of Danish life to me is that it is so little complicated. There are few very rich and few very poor anywhere in Denmark. The Danish worker is claimed to be the best housed and fed in Europe. Most good things are within the reach of most people.
Pleasures
    The Dane loves his good things, grand opera (for 6d. even, on people’s days), concerts, food, amusements,entertaining, is generally well educated, speaks, besides Danish, English and German, and loves to welcome foreigners.
Be Cosy
    Above all in Copenhagen you like to be “cosy” (hyggelig), even occasionally to asking of a newcomer “How old are you?” It is just friendly interest. It seems even “cosy” to be a king in Copenhagen. That tall officer alone in the street to whom all the women curtsey, is King Christian. When you go to His Majesty’s dinners to his officers, then you fill your pocket with chocolates from the royal table to take home to the children. How like both Danish host and guests not to assume that anyone is too stiff or even too affluent to disdain a few goodies for the children!
Nice Courtesies
    Easy sociability does not mean, however, that you need not be precise about many little courtesies. Raise your hat on entering a shop to the shop girl and keep it off whilst there. Give Baker Jensen or Mrs. Colonel or Merchant somebody their full titles. Say “Vaer saa god” (Please) when you pass anything, and to your hostess “Tak for Mad” (Thank you for food), or “Thank you for coffee,” or for whatever it has been, after the meal. Where wine, etc., is taken the host drinks individually with each guest. To his “Skaal” (Your health) you bow and answer “Skaal,” drink, bow again. The little smile just for you across the wine is welcoming. Guests “skaal” each other, the gentleman the lady, the older man the younger. When next you meet or telephone to your hostess after hospitality, remember to say “Tak for sidst” (Thank you for recent hospitality).
    Other Danish manners are the usual continental ones, the inferior salutes the superior first, the gentleman the lady. Younger people at a party go up to the older ones to bow and introduce themselves. When at the same table in a restaurant car with a stranger, bow. It is the custom, but not for the lady first. The English habit of ignoring a stranger here is often interpreted as arrogance.
    Meal hours at home are 7 or 8 a.m. light breakfast, 11 or 12 luncheon, dinner 5.30 or 6.30, tea 8 to 9 p.m.
    Working days are earlier than the English in many schools and offices, at 8 or 9 a.m. Most workers, from business magnate to school child, take a packet lunch, the beloved “smørrebrød,” with them, stopping only for about half an hour at noon to eat it with coffee and finishing