The Republic of Wine

why worry about it?

Chapter Eight
    I
    Dear Elder Brother Yidou
    I received and have read your story and your letter.
    After reading Swallows’ Nests.’ a parade of thoughts thronged my mind. When I was a child, my granddad told me that when rich people sit down to eat, their tables are filled with things like camel’s hooves, bear’s paw, monkey brains, swallow’s nest, and things like that. I’ve seen a camel, and I have no reason to doubt that their big, meaty hooves make for good eating, though I’ve never had the good fortune of tasting one. Once, as a child, I ate a horse’s hoof my second brother secretly cut off of a dead horse and brought home from his production brigade. Of course, we didn’t have a famous chef to prepare it, so my mother just boiled it in water with some salt. There wasn’t much meat on it, so I filled up on the broth. Still, it left a lasting impression, one I invariably bring up with my brother when we’re together at New Year’s, as if the delightful flavor still lay on my tongue. That was in i960, at the beginning of the famine, which is probably why the memory has stayed with me so long. As for bear’s paw, a couple of years ago an industrialist invited me to dinner at his home, and when the last dish was carried in, a plate of black lumpy things, he announced with great solemnity, This is bear’s paw, brought specially all the way from Heilongjiang. Excitedly, I picked up a piece with my chopsticks, put it in my mouth, and savored it slowly. It was sticky and mushy, neither particularly fragrant nor particularly foul-tasting, sort of like a pig’s leg tendons. But I raved about it to my host anyway. He picked up a piece, tasted it, and announced, 'It didn’t swell the way it should.' He criticized the chef for not being up to par. I was too embarrassed to ask him what he meant by ‘swell.’ Some time later, I asked a friend who worked in a Beijing restaurant what it meant to ‘swell’ something. He told me I’d eaten dried bear’s paw, which had to swell first. Fresh bear’s paw, on the other hand, doesn’t require it, but it’s still hard to prepare. If you obtain some fresh bear’s paw, he said, you have to dig a hole in the ground, line it with pieces of limestone, then put the bear’s paw inside and cover it with more limestone, which you douse with warm water until it’s hot enough to crack; that’s the only way to loosen the bristly hairs enough to pluck them out. He said that eating bear’s paw requires patience, since the softer it is, the better it tastes. If it’s planned for dinner, you need to begin stewing it at dawn. That’s too much trouble, if you ask me. I recall that my granddad also said that, since bears stop eating in the winter, they lick their paws to quell any hunger pangs, which is why they’re so treasured. But I have my doubts about that. As for monkey brains, I used to think they were just that, the brains of a monkey. But then someone said it was a sort of tree fungus. That’s something I’ve never eaten, although I have taken monkey brain fungus tablets for my stomach problem. Not long ago, I met someone from a pharmaceutical company on the train, and he said there was no way they could gather enough monkey brain fiingus to meet the demand, so they simply lace it with wood-ear fungus or dried mushrooms. That surprised me, since I never dreamed that even medicine was adulterated. If they’ll adulterate medicines, what can we expect to be unadulterated? The last thing I want to talk about are those frightful swallows’ nests. I’ve never seen one and never eaten one. In the novel Dream of the Red Chamber ’, every time Lin Daiyu’s consumption acts up, she drinks swallow’s-nest soup, which means it’s good stuff, and far too expensive for most people. But I never thought it was that expensive. Most of us could work half a lifetime and still not earn enough to buy a couple of catties of swallow’s nest. And after reading your story, it’s something I never want to try, partly because of the expense, but also because it involves such cruelty. I’m not one of those hypocritical ‘swallow-ists,’ but it pains me to think of one of those golden swallows making a nest out of its own saliva. My level is about on a par with ‘my wife’ in your story. I doubt that swallow’s nest is as mystical as ‘my mother-in-law’ says. Swallow’s nest is popular in Hong Kong, but if you look at the people walking the