Training for Climbing, 2nd: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Performance (How To Climb Series)

exceed ten pounds. Use of heavy resistance is not necessary or desirable.
     
    Dumbbell External Rotation

     
    Bent-Over Arm Raise

     
    3. Bent-Over Arm Raise
    Standing with one leg slightly ahead of the other, assume a bent-over position with your free arm braced on your knee or hip. Holding a five-pound dumbbell in the opposite hand, lift your arm up to your side until it’s parallel to the floor. Hold for a moment and lower slowly to the starting position. Keep your elbow straight throughout the range of motion. Do three sets of ten to fifteen repetitions. Increase the weight as strength gains allow, but do not exceed fifteen pounds.
     
    Bent-Over Arm Kickback

     
    4. Bent-Over Arm Kickback
    Assume the same bent-over position as in the previous exercise, but this time lift the five-pound dumbbell behind you until it’s parallel to the floor and in a position next to your hip. Hold here for a moment, then return to the starting position. Maintain a straight arm throughout the range of motion. Do three sets of ten to fifteen repetitions. Increase the weight as strength gains allow, but do not exceed fifteen pounds.

Knee Injuries
     
    Injury to the knee is a relatively new phenomenon in climbing that correlates directly to the proliferation of indoor and sport climbing. New climbing techniques like the drop-knee weren’t popularized until the 1990s, but this is now a staple move of the steep indoor and outdoor climbs that are so prominent today. Repeated use of the drop-knee, especially under high force load, can tear the specialized cartilage in the knee called the meniscus (Stelzle 2000), as can high-stepping in a full-hip-turnout position. A meniscus tear—or, worse, a tear of a knee ligament—can also occur during a forceful, uneven landing when jumping off a boulder problem.
MENISCUS TEAR
     
    Meniscus is a tough, fibrous type of cartilage that sits between the ends of the femur and tibia (see figure 11.5). The menisci serve primarily as shock absorbers between the ends of the bones to protect the articulating surfaces (McFarland 2000). There are two separate C-shaped meniscal cartilages in the knee, one on the inner half of the knee (the medial meniscus) and the other on the outer half (the lateral meniscus). A partial or total tear of a meniscus can occur during forced rotation of the knee while the foot remains in a fixed position. In climbing, these tears most often occur in severe drop-knee positions, which produce inside rotation of the knee under pressure.
    A small meniscus tear can develop gradually from repeated use of these climbing moves, or a tear may occur suddenly. Some tears involve only a small portion of the meniscus, while others produce a bucket handle, or complete separation of a piece of cartilage. Symptoms can range from mild pain and no visible swelling to severe pain and swelling and reduced mobility (McFarland 2000). Many meniscal tears cause popping, clicking, and locking of the knee in certain positions.
    Not all meniscus tears cause big problems. A minor tear in the thick outer portion of the meniscus may be able to repair itself given fairly good blood supply. Also, use of the supplement glucosamine sulfate is believed to support the formation of new cartilage and may enhance the healing process. In minor cases, symptoms will disappear on their own; persistent pain that affects daily activities or produces significant pain in certain climbing positions may require surgery, however.

     
    Figure 11.5 Meniscus Tear
     

    Arthroscopic surgery is very successful in relieving pain and restoring full function to the injured knee. The goal of arthroscopic surgery is to preserve as much of the meniscus as possible so as to decrease the chance of future arthritis (McFarland 2000). Tears on the outer margin of the meniscus are more amenable to repair, since they have greater blood flow compared with the thin, inner margin of the meniscus. Tears in the thin portion of the meniscus are typically excised; entirely detached pieces of cartilage are removed.
    Recovery from arthroscopic surgery is rapid. The procedure is generally performed as outpatient surgery, followed by three to seven days of rest, ice packs, and elevating the limb. Crutches are often used during the first postoperative week, though weight can be placed on the injured leg as can be tolerated. Most patients return to work in less than a week, and other normal activities can be added during the second and third week