Training for Climbing, 2nd: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Performance (How To Climb Series)

same coin—if you put the effort into training optimally, then it would be a waste not to do everything in your power to recover optimally as well.

     
    Jeff Batzer showing no handicap as he tops out on Upper Refuse , Cathedral Ledge, New Hampshire. ERIC J. HÖRST
     

APPENDIX A
     
    Muscular Anatomy
     

     

     

APPENDIX B
     
    Training Charts
     
    Use the two blank training charts on the following pages to track your training progress. The “Training and Climbing Macrocycle” will enable you to set annual training objectives and seasonal climbing goals as well as record your actual progress. You can use the chart to plan your training for the four seasons, target specific types of training, track the number of days you train, and record your achievements throughout the year.
    Use the “Energy-Emotion Levels” chart to track your physical energy and emotional mind-set hour by hour throughout the day. You can use this chart to observe patterns, identify negative triggers, modify your emotional state, and better manage your energy and emotions for optimal performance.

     
    Training and Climbing Macrocycle
     

     
    Energy-Emotion Levels
     

APPENDIX C
     
    Self-Assessment Test Comments and Training Tips
     
    The Self-Assessment Test in chapter 2 covers physical strength, mental focus, and techniques and tactics. Taking the test should help you to gauge your overall strengths and weaknesses and pinpoint some specific areas for improvement. If you gave yourself a score of 3 or lower on any of the questions, you’ve identified weak spots that should be targeted for training. Here is a brief comment on each of these common problems as well as some specific tips for improving your climbing performance. For more in-depth information on any of these topics, see the chapters referenced below.
    1. If your footwork deteriorates during the hardest part of the climb, you might be focusing on the lack of good handholds instead of zeroing in on crucial footholds (often the key to unlocking hard sequences).
    TIP: When the going gets tough, focus on your feet! (See chapter 3.)
    2. If your forearms balloon and your grip begins to fail, you are probably overgripping the holds and/or climbing too slowly.
    TIP: On near-vertical walls, relax your grip and place maximum weight over your feet. When the wall angle is overhanging, the number one rule is to climb fast from one rest to the next. (See chapter 4.)
    3. If you have difficulty stepping onto critical footholds during hard sequences, lack of flexibility or weak hip flexor muscles is the likely problem.
    TIP: Begin daily stretching for a minimum of ten minutes and practice high steps in a gym setting. (See chapter 6.)
    4. If you find you get anxious and tight as you head into crux sequences, normalized breathing is the key to reducing tension and anxiety.
    TIP: Before starting up a climb, close your eyes and take five slow, deep breaths (each breath should take at least ten seconds). Try to maintain steady breathing as you climb. Take three more slow, deep breaths at each rest position and before you begin the crux sequence. (See chapter 3.)
    5. If your biceps pump out before your forearms, it usually means you’re hanging out with bent arms. Straight-arm positions are fundamental to good climbing technique.
    TIP: Whenever possible, hang “by the bone” and not with flexed arm muscle. Straight-arm positions are especially important when placing gear, shaking out, or pausing to decipher the next sequence (see chapter 4).
    6. Do you have difficulty hanging on to small, necessary holds? Although poor body positioning can make small holds even harder to use, it’s likely that your contact strength (grip) needs work.
    TIP: Spend more time training on steep walls and gym cave areas, and go bouldering more often. Some limited fingerboard and hypergravity training is also recommended for intermediate and advanced climbers. (See chapter 7.)
    7. If you fail on sequences you know by heart, you might be making the common mistake of trying or inventing new sequences during a redpoint attempt.
    TIP: When you find a sequence that works, it’s usually best to stick with it. Counter any midclimb thoughts of trying a new sequence with the definitive belief that you already know (and can do) the best sequence.
    8. If you stall at the start of crux sequences, you might be suffering from paralysis by analysis.
    TIP: When faced with a crux sequence, visualize two possible sequences, and