Training for Climbing, 2nd: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Performance (How To Climb Series)

solution or intermediate hold to be discovered that will solve apparent reach problems.
    TIP: Try a move five, ten, or even twenty different ways and you’ll almost always find one that works!
    21. If your feet cut loose and swing out on overhanging routes and roofs, it’s possible that poor footwork and body positioning are responsible. More often, however, it results from weak core muscles (torso).
    TIP: Perform the core-muscle exercises, described in chapter 6, at least twice weekly. Also, spend more time in a bouldering cave working on your steep-wall footwork and body position.
    22. If you get distracted by activity on the ground, remember that while climbing your focus must be locked onto the moves at hand, not directed downward. If less than 95 percent of your focus/attention is targeted on the climb, you don’t have much of a chance of success.
    TIP: Clear your mind of what’s happening on the ground. If you need confirmation that your belayer is paying attention, a simple “watch me” will do; then refocus on the move at hand. (See chapter 3.)
    23. It’s common for beginning climbers to have difficulty reading sequences. Reading sequences comes from experience—each time you go climbing is money in the bank!
    TIP: Climb up to four days a week to increase your rate of deposit. Always try to figure sequences from the ground and minimize use of beta (a real handicap to learning), except when climbing for performance.
    24. Do you experience a deep flash pump on the first climb of the day? A flash pump results when you push your muscles too hard, too soon.
    TIP: Lengthen your warm-up period, add more stretching and some sports massage, and always do a few increasingly difficult routes before attempting your project.
    25. If you have more difficulty climbing when people are watching, remember that the pressure of needing to perform is entirely self-imposed. Therefore, it can be turned off as easily as you turn it on.
    TIP: Commit to climb for yourself—for the challenge, adventure, and fun of it (all the reasons you got into climbing in the first place). Forget about the rest of the world, engage the process of climbing, and let the outcome take care of itself. (See chapter 3.)
    26. If your feet unexpectedly pop off footholds, take heart that this is a common problem, even among some advanced climbers.
    TIP: Refocus your attention on your feet for a few weeks. Evaluate whether you carefully place your feet on the best part of a hold or simply drop them onto the biggest-looking part. Also, do you hold your foot position stationary as you stand up or does your shoe move on the hold? These are things you need to practice in a nonperformance setting. (See chapter 4.)
    27. Do you experience frequent elbow pain? There are two types of elbow tendinosis common to climbers. If you climb enough years, chances are you’ll experience at least one of them.
    TIP: Reverse Wrist Curls and forearm rotation exercises as well as regular forearm stretching will help prevent these problems. Perform three sets of Reverse Wrist Curls (twenty-five reps with a five- to fifteen-pound dumbbell) and two sets of Forearm Pronators, three days per week, year-round. Stretch both sides of your forearms each day. (See chapter 6.)
    28. If you have trouble pushing yourself to the limit on a safe lead climb, your problem is more likely mental than physical. Keep in mind that mental fortitude is as important as brawn.
    TIP: On safe routes consciously push yourself into the mental discomfort zone. At first this will feel like bitter medicine, but in time it will redefine your mental limits. (See chapter 3.)
    29. If you have difficulty finding midroute rest positions, you are missing one of the keys to sending routes near your limit.
    TIP: Creative practice (in a nonperformance setting) at finding funky rest positions, modeling the rest positions of other climbers, and climbing experience at a wide range of crags will, in time, make finding “thank God” rests instinctual!
    30. If your first attempt on a hard route is usually better than second or third attempts that day, lack of muscular endurance and stamina are likely a contributing factor.
    TIP: Climbing laps on training routes or boulder problems is a great way to improve endurance. Use the interval-climbing strategies detailed in chapter 7.
     

APPENDIX D
     
    Fitness Evaluation
     
    This ten-part evaluation is strenuous. Perform a complete warm-up before proceeding, and rest