Training for Climbing, 2nd: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Performance (How To Climb Series)

then immediately try the one that looks more promising. Once you commit to a sequence, go for it! Only one thing should be on your mind—getting to the next good hold (or rest) as fast as possible.
    9. Do you climb three or four days in a row? Unless you are one of those genetically gifted extreme outliers, climbing or training on three or four consecutive days is a practice that will lead to overtraining, injury, and a drop in performance.
    TIP: In this case, less is more. Switch to a two-day-on, one-day-off (or one-day-on, one-day-off) schedule and you will be training smarter and climbing harder!
    10. Sewing-machine leg is common in the tight, anxious climber.
    TIP: Lengthen your warm-up and begin working some of the relaxation exercises described in this text. (See chapter 3.)
    11. If you pump out on overhanging climbs, you should be aware that the pump clock starts running when you leave the ground. You might not be too weak to climb the route—just too slow!
    TIP: Practice climbing more quickly on known (wired) routes and when redpointing. Foster a watchful eye that’s on the lookout for creative rests that might stop the clock for a few moments. (See chapters 3 and 4.)
    12. Do you get out of breath when you climb? Rapid breathing while climbing results from excess tension, irregular breathing, or poor aerobic fitness.
    TIP: Concentrate on maintaining relaxed, normal breathing while you climb. Also, consider engaging in some aerobic training (preferably running) three to four days per week. Build up to a maximum of four, twenty-minute runs per week. (See chapter 6.)
    13. If you begin thinking about how you might fail on a route before you even start, you should know that belief gives birth to reality. If the thought of failing crosses your mind, you likely will.
    TIP: Before you start up a climb, always visualize yourself successfully climbing the route from bottom to top. (See chapter 3.)
    14. Do you miss hidden holds on routes? Tunnel vision is a common cause of failure, especially during on-sight climbing.
    TIP: Scope the route from a few different vantage points before leaving the ground. As you climb, keep an open mind for hidden holds—the key hold always seems to take a little extra effort to locate. If a route feels really hard for its grade, chances are there’s a good handhold or foothold escaping your view. (See chapters 3 and 4.)
    15. If you have difficulty hanging on to small holds or pockets, keep in mind that open-hand grip strength is crucial. Expert climbers favor it, while beginner climbers avoid it.
    TIP: While training and bouldering, force yourself to use the open-hand grip at least 50 percent of the time. Most intermediate and advanced climbers can significantly improve open-hand grip strength through use of HIT workouts. (See chapter 7.)
    16. It’s common to grab onto gear rather than risk a fall trying a hard move. Assuming the potential fall is safe, always go for the move instead of grabbing gear or hanging on the rope. The bad habit of grabbing gear is easy to develop and very hard to break. Plus, you’ll never learn where your true limit is if you give up in this way.
    TIP: Counter any thought of grabbing gear with the belief that there is absolutely a good hold just a few moves above you (there probably is!).
    17. If much of your body weight is hanging on your arms, you might not be placing your weight (center of gravity) over your feet.
    TIP: Invest more time practicing technique and body positioning. Focus on keeping your crotch and hips in near the wall (except on slabs) and experiment with moves where you turn one hip or the other to the wall. Some flexibility training may be beneficial, too (see chapter 4).
    18. Intense soreness after only one day of cragging means that your training volume and intensity are not congruent with your outdoor climbing goals.
    TIP: Step up your indoor training and always try for two solid training days during the workweek.
    19. Do you have difficulty visualizing yourself successfully climbing the route? All peak performers acknowledge the importance of visualization.
    TIP: Get into the habit of climbing each route in your mind’s eye at least twice before giving it a real go. (See chapter 3.)
    20. If you think you cannot reach key holds on difficult routes, you should be aware that this is the oldest excuse in this sport. Funny thing is, some great short climbers never use this excuse! The reason—there is almost always a technical