Training for Climbing, 2nd: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Performance (How To Climb Series)

extensively between tests. Take this fitness test annually to gauge your changes in conditioning for climbing. Submit your results at TrainingForClimbing.com .
     
    Test 1: One set maximum number of pull-ups. Do this test on a standard pull-up bar (or bucket hold on a fingerboard) with your palms away and hands shoulder width apart. Do not bounce, and be sure to go up and down the whole way.
     
    Evaluation: Total number of pull-ups in a single set to failure.
     
    Results: _________________________
     
    Test 2: One repetition maximum pull-up. Do a single pull-up with a ten-pound weight clipped to your harness. Rest three minutes, then add ten more pounds and repeat. (If you are very strong, begin with a twenty-pound weight and increase at ten- to twenty-pound increments.) Continue in this fashion until you have added more weight than you can pull up.
     
    Evaluation: The maximum amount of added weight successfully lifted for a single pull-up divided by your body weight.
     
    Results: ________________________
     
    Test 3: One-arm lock-off. Start with a standard chin-up (palms facing) then lock off at the top on one arm and let go with the other.
     
    Evaluation: Length of time in the lock-off before your chin drops below the bar.
     
    Results: Right arm ________________________ Left arm ________________________
     
    Test 4: One set maximum number of Frenchies. Perform the exercise as described on page 166. Remember, each cycle consists of three pull-ups separated by the three different lock-off positions, which are held for five seconds. Have a partner time your lock-offs.
     
    Evaluation: The number of cycles (or part of) completed in a single set.
     
    Results: ________________________
     
    Test 5: One set maximum number of fingertip pull-ups on a 0.75-inch (19 millimeter) edge. Perform this exercise as in test 1 except on a fingerboard edge or doorjamb of approximately the stated size.
     
    Evaluation: The number of fingertip pull-ups done in a single go.
     
    Results: ________________________
     
    Test 6: Lock off in the top position of a fingertip pull-up (0.75-inch or 19-millimeter edge) for as long as possible.
     
    Evaluation: Length of time in the lock-off until your chin drops below the edge.
     
    Results: ________________________
     
    Test 7: Straight-arm hang from a standard pull-up bar. Place your hands shoulder width apart with palms facing away.
     
    Evaluation: Length of time you can hang on the bar before muscle failure.
     
    Results: ________________________
     
    Test 8: One set maximum number of abdominal crunches. Perform these on a pad or carpeted floor with your knees bent at approximately ninety degrees, your feet flat on the floor with nothing anchoring them. Cross your arms over your upper chest and perform each crunch until your shoulder blades rise off the floor.
     
    Evaluation: Number of crunches you can perform without stopping. Do them in a controlled manner—no bouncing off the floor.
     
    Results: ________________________
     
    Test 9: Wall split as described on page 108. Be sure that your rear end is no more than 6 inches from the wall.
     
    Evaluation: Position your legs so they are equidistant from the floor and measure the distance from your heels to the floor.
    Results: ________________________
     
    Test 10: High-step stretch. Stand facing a wall with one foot flat on the floor with toes touching the wall. Lift the other leg up to the side as high as possible without any aid from your hands.
     
    Evaluation: Measure the height of your step off the floor and divide it by your height.
     
    Results: ________________________

GLOSSARY
     
    The following is a compilation of some of the technical terms and climbing jargon used throughout this book.
     
    active recovery —The restoration of homeostasis following vigorous exercise that involves continued light-intensity movement; facilitates faster recovery by enhancing lactate removal from the blood.
    acute —Having rapid onset and severe symptoms.
    adaptive response —Physiological changes in structure or function particularly related to response to a training overload.
    adipose tissue —Body fat.
    aerobic(s) —Any physical activity deriving energy from the breakdown of glycogen in the presence of oxygen, thus producing little or no lactic acid, enabling an athlete to continue exercise much longer.
    agonist —A muscle directly engaged in a muscular contraction.
    anaerobic —Energy production in the muscles involving the