Training for Climbing, 2nd: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Performance (How To Climb Series)

breakdown of glycogen in the absence of oxygen; a by-product called lactic acid is formed, resulting in rapid fatigue and cessation of physical activity.
    anaerobic endurance —The ability to continue moderate- to high-intensity activity over a period of time; commonly called power endurance or power stamina by climbers, though these terms are scientifically incorrect.
    anaerobic threshold —The workload or level of oxygen consumption where lactate production by the working muscles exceeds the rate of lactate removal by the liver; typically at 50 percent to 80 percent of maximum intensity of exercise, and in proportion to one’s level of anaerobic endurance conditioning.
    antagonist —A muscle providing an opposing force to the primary muscles of action (agonist).
    antioxidants —Substances (vitamins and minerals) proven to oppose oxidation and inhibit or neutralize free radicals.
    ape-index —Fingertip-to-fingertip distance (across your chest with arms out to each side) minus your height; a positive ape-index is associated with above-average reach for a given height.
    artery —A vessel that carries oxygenated blood away from the heart to the tissues of the body.
    arthritis —A disease that causes inflammation, swelling, and pain in the joints.
    arousal —An internal state of alertness or excitement.
    ATP —Adenosine triphosphate; a high-energy molecule that is stored in the muscles in very small amounts. The body’s ultimate fuel source.
    atrophy —Gradual shrinking and deconditioning of muscle tissue from disuse.
    backstepping —Outside edging on a foothold that is behind you while climbing a move with your side to the wall.
    barndoor —Sideways swinging or uncontrolled turning of the body resulting from poor balance or body positioning.
    basal metabolic rate —The minimum level of energy required to sustain the body’s vital functions.
    beta —Any prior information about a route, including sequence, rests, gear, clips, and so on.
    biological value (BV) —A method for evaluating protein sources; a high BV protein source has a high percentage of nutrients actually absorbed from the human intestine as opposed to excreted.
    blocked practice —A practice routine in which a specific task is practiced repeatedly, as in working a crux move or sequence.
    bouldering —Variable practice of climbing skills performed without a belay rope at the base of a cliff or on small boulders.
    campus (or campusing) —Climbing an overhanging section of rock or artificial wall with no feet, usually in a dynamic left-hand, right-hand, left-hand (and so forth) sequence.
    campus training —A sport-specific form of plyometric exercise, developed by Wolfgang Güllich at the Campus Center, a weight-lifting facility at the University of Nürnberg, Germany.
    capillary —The tiny blood vessels that receive blood flow from the arteries, interchange substances between the blood and the tissues, and return the blood to the veins.
    capillary density —The number of capillaries per unit area of muscle tissue. Capillary density increases, mainly in slow-twitch fibers, in response to aerobic training.
    catabolic —A breaking-down process in the body, as in muscle breakdown during intense exercise.
    center of gravity —The theoretical point on which the total effect of gravity acts on the body.
    chronic —Continuing over time.
    concentric contraction —Any movement involving a shortening of muscles fibers while developing tension, as in the biceps muscle during a pull-up.
    contact strength —Initial grip strength upon touching a handhold; directly related to the speed at which the muscular motor units are called into play.
    cortisol —A hormone, released in response to emotional or exercise stress, that promotes fat utilization, inhibits inflammatory response, and facilitates breakdown of muscle proteins for energy.
    cortisone —A synthetic form of cortisol used (injected) as an anti-inflammatory.
    creatine phosphate (CP) —A high-energy phosphate compound stored in skeletal muscle and used to supply energy for brief, high-intensity muscle action.
    crimp grip —The most natural (and stressful) way to grip a rock hold, characterized by hyperextension of the first joint in the fingers and nearly full flexion of the second joint.
    crux —The hardest move, or sequence of moves, on a route.
    deadpoint —The high position in a dynamic movement where, for a moment, all motion stops.
    detox —To shake out, rest, and recover from